tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656Mon, 30 Nov 2009 12:00:33 +0000http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/f.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)Blogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-3499400895950351476Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:51:00 +00002007-12-07T03:30:08.878-08:00Robert Harold "Nat" Young<a href="http://www.surfbooks.com/nat.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.surfbooks.com/nat.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nat_Young_(surfer)">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nat_Young_(surfer)</a> </div><div align="center"></div><div align="center"></div><div align="left">Robert Harold "Nat" Young (born <a title="November 17" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/November_17">November 17</a>, <a title="1947" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1947">1947</a>) is an <a title="Australian" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australian">Australian</a> <a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer">surfer</a> and <a title="Author" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Author">author</a>.<br />Born in <a title="Sydney, New South Wales" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sydney,_New_South_Wales">Sydney</a>, <a title="New South Wales" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_South_Wales">New South Wales</a>, Young grew up in the small coastal suburb of <a title="Collaroy, New South Wales" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collaroy,_New_South_Wales">Collaroy</a>. In 1964, he was runner-up in the Australian junior championship at <a title="Manly, New South Wales" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manly,_New_South_Wales">Manly</a>, and two years later was named <a title="World surfing champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_surfing_champion">world surfing champion</a> in 1966. He won the title again (then called the Smirnoff World Pro/Am) in 1970. Young won three Australian titles in 1966, 1967 and 1969, and won the <a title="Bells Beach Surf Classic" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bells_Beach_Surf_Classic">Bells Beach Surf Classic</a> a record four times. Since retiring from professional surfing, Young has written several books about surfing and sailboarding in Australia. His son Beau has also seen some success in the sport, winning the World Longboard title in 2000.<br />In 2000, Young was a victim of 'surf rage' when he was severely bashed on his home break of <a title="Angourie, New South Wales" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angourie,_New_South_Wales">Angourie</a> after a long-running feud and heated altercation with another local surfer. During his recovery he wrote a book titled Surf Rage, calling for greater tolerance and mutual respect in the surfing community, although Young admitted he had acted aggressively during his career (where he had earned the nickname "The Animal"), and had acted provocatively towards his attacker, who he met and forgave several months after the incident.</div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"><strong></strong> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><div align="left"> </div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/mRJu4KjATKA&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/mRJu4KjATKA&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-3499400895950351476?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/robert-harold-nat-young.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-1428243686504187935Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:42:00 +00002009-07-09T00:07:16.278-07:00Joel Tudor<img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 182px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 190px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356353334966419426" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SlWW-p4m_-I/AAAAAAAAAkw/BlzDFTQbzKI/s320/joel.jpg" /> <div><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joel_Tudor">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joel_Tudor</a> </div><br />Joel Tudor is a world famous longboard <a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing">surfer</a> from <a title="San Diego" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Diego">San Diego</a>, <a title="California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California">California</a>.<br />He started out in <a title="Skateboarding" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skateboarding">skateboarding</a> and, while in his early teens, gained both recognition and sponsorship for this. On the water, his apparently effortless skill saw him win his first professional <a title="Association of Surfing Professionals" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Association_of_Surfing_Professionals">ASP</a> competition at age 14. Unlike the vast majority of his contemporaries who were riding only modern <a title="Shortboard" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shortboard">short surfboards</a>, he also rode the out-of-fashion <a title="Longboard (surfing)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longboard_%28surfing%29">longboard</a>, and it was the longboard that catapulted him to worldwide fame in his mid-teens. His reputation was such that, when he was on a break, other surfers would sometimes leave the water to watch his silky mastery of such skills as nose-riding ("hanging five" and "hanging ten" - riding with the toes of one or both feet hanging over the nose of the board<a class="external autonumber" title="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_surfing_terms#H" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_surfing_terms#H" rel="nofollow">[1]</a>). Admiration of Tudor was a major factor in the longboard revival of the 1990s.<br />Despite wide recognition as the doyen of modern longboard riders, and regularly competing in the longboard world championships, it took seven attempts before he finally won this event in the <a title="Canary Islands" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canary_Islands">Canary Islands</a> in 1998.<br />Joel now has his own surfboard manufacturing company, as well as selling wetsuits in <a title="Japan" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japan">Japan</a>.<br />Due to his skill on both longboards and shortboards, on big waves and small, Tudor is widely considered to be one of the best surfers alive, and is also known for being unusually open-minded with regard to the diverse equipment that can be used for wave riding.<br /><br /><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong><br /><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong><br /><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/9NWh9hRO2gA&amp;rel=1"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9NWh9hRO2gA&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-1428243686504187935?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/joel-tudor.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-4085707611426085546Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:37:00 +00002007-12-07T03:32:56.608-08:00Shaun Tomson<div align="center"><a href="http://www.jewishsports.net/BioImages/bookB_Page_003_Image_0001.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.jewishsports.net/BioImages/bookB_Page_003_Image_0001.jpg" border="0" /></a> Source:</div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaun_Tomson">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaun_Tomson</a></div><div align="center"></div><div align="center"></div><div align="left">Shaun Tomson was born on <a title="August 21" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/August_21">August 21</a>, <a title="1955" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1955">1955</a> in <a title="Durban" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durban">Durban</a>, <a title="South Africa" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Africa">South Africa</a>. He is considered one of the world's most significant <a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing">surfers</a> and was the <a title="1977" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1977">1977</a> <a title="World surfing champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_surfing_champion">world champion</a>. He first gained notoriety while surfing at <a class="new" title="Jeffery's Bay" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jeffery%27s_Bay&amp;action=edit">Jeffery's Bay</a>.<br />He currently lives in <a title="Montecito, CA" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montecito,_CA">Montecito, CA</a> and is active with the <a title="The Surfrider Foundation" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Surfrider_Foundation">The Surfrider Foundation</a>. He is involved with his family clothing venture, Solitude.<br />Son Mathew died on April 24th, 2006 in Durban, South Africa from an accidental death caused by playing the "<a title="Choking game" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choking_game">choking game</a>." </div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/BY-NLH2IV8U&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/BY-NLH2IV8U&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-4085707611426085546?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/shaun-tomson-tomchinsky.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-6963336957585469933Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:32:00 +00002009-07-09T00:09:11.461-07:00Rell Kapolioka'ehukai Sunn<div align="center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SlWXdFAdUZI/AAAAAAAAAk4/Ntqk-6qhoRI/s1600-h/rell29.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 272px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 209px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356353857643172242" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SlWXdFAdUZI/AAAAAAAAAk4/Ntqk-6qhoRI/s320/rell29.jpg" /></a> Source:<br /><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rell_Sunn">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rell_Sunn</a><br /></div><div align="left"><br /><strong>Rell Kapolioka'ehukai Sunn (</strong><a title="1950" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1950"><strong>1950</strong></a><strong> – </strong><a title="January 2" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/January_2"><strong>January 2</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="1998" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1998"><strong>1998</strong></a><strong> in </strong><a title="Mākaha, Hawai'i" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C4%81kaha%2C_Hawai%27i"><strong>Mākaha, Hawai'i</strong></a><strong>) was an American </strong><a title="World surfing champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_surfing_champion"><strong>world surfing champion</strong></a><strong>. Known as "Queen of Makaha" and "Aunty Rell," she was a pioneer in the world of women's </strong><a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing"><strong>surfing</strong></a><strong>. </strong><br />Rell Sunn was born in Makaha on Oahu in 1950, the fourth of Elbert and Roen Sunn's five children. Her father Elbert is Chinese, and her mother Roen is Hawaiian-Irish. Her <a title="Hawaiian language" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaiian_language">Hawaiian</a> middle name, Ka-polioka'ehukai, means Heart of the Sea.<br />Sunn started surfing at age 4 at Makaha, and was entering competitive surf meets by the age of 14. At the time, not all surfing competitions has women's divisions, in which case she would enter the contest and compete successfully against her male counterparts.<a title="" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rell_Sunn#_note-sb-editorial">[1]</a><br />Sunn was a pioneer in women's competitive surfing and water sports. She became Hawaii's first female lifeguard in <a title="1977" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1977">1977</a>. In <a title="1975" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1975">1975</a>, Sunn was one of the original members of the first women's professional surfing tour. Faced with what they saw as frustrating inequities between male and female surfers, Sunn, along with other female surfers, founded the Women's Professional Surfing Association in <a title="1979" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1979">1979</a>.<a title="" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rell_Sunn#_note-asianlifestyle">[2]</a> She also founded the Women's Surfing Hui (organization) in Hawaii. In <a title="1982" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1982">1982</a>, she ranked first in the international professional surfing ratings.<br />In <a title="1982" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1982">1982</a>, during a pro surf meet in <a title="Huntington Beach, California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huntington_Beach%2C_California">Huntington Beach, California</a>, Sunn felt a lump in her breast which turned out to be <a title="Breast cancer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breast_cancer">breast cancer</a>. When she was diagnosed in <a title="1983" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1983">1983</a>, her prognosis was for one year. Sunn continued to surf everyday after her diagnosis, despite the pain and chemotherapy associated with the disease.<br />Following her diagnosis, Sunn became a radio disc jockey and surf reporter, a physical therapist at a Waianae care home, and a counselor at a cancer research center<a title="" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rell_Sunn#_note-sb-editorial">[1]</a>. She helped pilot a program for breast cancer awareness at the Wai’anae Cancer Research Center that involved educating local women about the causes and prevention of breast cancer.<br />During the next 14 years, her cancer went into remission three times, and she underwent a <a title="Mastectomy" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastectomy">mastectomy</a> and a <a title="Bone marrow transplant" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bone_marrow_transplant">bone marrow transplant</a>.<br />Sunn died on <a title="January 3" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/January_3">January 3</a>, <a title="1998" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1998">1998</a>. Over 3,000 people attended her memorial service, where her ashes were scattered in the ocean off Makaha.<br />Sunn was married three times, most recently to Dave Parmenter in 1995. She has one daughter, Jan (who is married to Tony Kaumana), and two grandchildren, Kamalani and Caiden Kaumana.<br />In August 1996, Sunn was honored with a granite stone on the <a class="new" title="Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Huntington_Beach_Surfing_Walk_of_Fame&amp;action=edit">Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame</a>.<br />In 1997, an award-winning documentary about her life titled Heart of the Sea was filmed by filmmakers Charlotte Lagarde and Lisa Denker.<br /><br /><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong><br /><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><br /><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/xzZbkg0xiJE&amp;rel=1"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/xzZbkg0xiJE&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object></div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-6963336957585469933?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/rell-kapoliokaehukai-sunn.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-1125421807738712674Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:27:00 +00002007-12-07T03:37:05.271-08:00Mike Stewart<a href="http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/views/icons/stewart.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.hisurfadvisory.com/views/icons/stewart.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mike_Stewart">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mike_Stewart</a><br /></div><br />Mike Stewart (<a title="1963" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1963">1963</a> - ) is a nine time World Champion <a title="Bodyboard" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodyboard">bodyboarder</a>, one of the early pioneers of the bodyboarding sport, a pioneer of big-wave tow-in surfing and also a champion <a title="Bodysurfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodysurfer">bodysurfer</a>.<br />He was the former undisputed number one bodyboarder in the world, prior to the establishment of the <a title="World Tour" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Tour">World Tour</a>. Having ridden bodyboards since the inception of the sport he is one of the most experienced bodyboarders currently in the tour.<br />He has won the annual <a title="Banzai Pipeline" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banzai_Pipeline">Banzai Pipeline</a> line event a record 11 times, from which 8 earned him the world title, and has been crowned the <a title="Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pipeline_Bodysurfing_Classic">Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic</a> champion a record 10 times. He is the only bodyboarder to have been competing in the Banzai Pipeline event since 1982.<br />He has received the title <a title="Mister Pipeline" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mister_Pipeline">Mister Pipeline</a> for being the best wave rider of any kind, the only non stand-up surfer to achieve this title.<br />He is father to two kids and lives in <a title="Oahu" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oahu">Oahu</a> with his family.<br /><br /><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong><br /><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/s34tPDZRW1s&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/s34tPDZRW1s&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-1125421807738712674?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/mike-stewart.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-1512500470205244330Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:22:00 +00002007-12-07T03:38:12.759-08:00Mark Richards<a href="http://www.claudiaferrari.com/richardsmakaha2003.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.claudiaferrari.com/richardsmakaha2003.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source:</div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Richards_%28surfer%29">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Richards_%28surfer%29</a></div><div align="center"> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Mark Richards (born </strong><a title="March 7" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/March_7"><strong>7 March</strong></a><strong> </strong><a title="1957" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1957"><strong>1957</strong></a><strong>), known as MR, is an </strong><a title="Australian" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australian"><strong>Australian</strong></a><strong> </strong><a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing"><strong>surfer</strong></a><strong>, four times </strong><a title="World surfing champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_surfing_champion"><strong>world champion</strong></a><strong> (</strong><a title="1979" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1979"><strong>1979</strong></a><strong>-</strong><a title="1982" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1982"><strong>1982</strong></a><strong>), and highly respected by his peers. </strong></div><div align="left">Richards was born and grew up in <a title="Newcastle, New South Wales" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newcastle%2C_New_South_Wales">Newcastle</a>, son of Ray and Val Richards, both keen beachgoers. They worked at the Wire Rope Works, Ray Richards as an account, but he wanted more than that career could offer and started a business selling second-hand cars, at a time when new cars were too expensive for most people. Together they setup a showroom at the end of Hunter St and lived in an apartment above it.<br />In the late <a title="1950s" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1950s">1950s</a> Ray saw the new <a title="Balsa" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balsa">balsa</a> and <a title="Fibreglass" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibreglass">fibreglass</a> <a title="Longboard (surfing)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longboard_%28surfing%29">mailbu surfboards</a>, which <a title="Greg Noll" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greg_Noll">Greg Noll</a> and other visiting Californians had brought with them in <a title="1956" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1956">1956</a>. The new boards were shorter and more manoeuvrable than the solid timber boards used until then. He bought himself one, and when he saw how much it impressed people he made a decision to branch into selling them too, buying from early manufacturers in <a title="Sydney" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sydney">Sydney</a>. So the business came a combination car yard and surf shop, and in time the cars gave way to the surfboards and it became a dedicated surf shop, one of the first in Australia.<br />So when Mark was born in <a title="1957" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1957">1957</a> he was always around surfboards, growing up with <a class="new" title="Surf-o-plane" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Surf-o-plane&amp;action=edit">surf-o-planes</a> and pint-sized <a title="Longboard (surfing)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longboard_%28surfing%29">longboards</a>. He learnt to surf in gentle waves at <a title="Blacksmiths, New South Wales" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blacksmiths%2C_New_South_Wales">Blacksmiths Beach</a>, about 15 minutes south of Newcastle, a beach partly sheltered by the breakwater on the northern side of the entrance to <a title="Lake Macquarie (New South Wales)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Macquarie_%28New_South_Wales%29">Lake Macquarie</a>. The family also went to <a title="Rainbow Bay" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rainbow_Bay">Rainbow Bay</a> on <a title="Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queensland">Queensland</a>'s <a title="Gold Coast, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold_Coast%2C_Queensland">Gold Coast</a> for holidays, where he surfed <a title="Snapper Rocks" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snapper_Rocks">Snapper Rocks</a>. He was also very keen on <a title="Cricket" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cricket">cricket</a> when young.<br />Richards surfed many junior competitions around Australia, taking time off school to go in some cases. He also made trips to <a title="Hawaii" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii">Hawaii</a> for winter on the <a title="North Shore (O`ahu)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Shore_%28O%60ahu%29">North Shore</a> as a teenager. The highlight of his junior career was a win at <a title="Margaret River, Western Australia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margaret_River%2C_Western_Australia">Margaret River</a> in <a title="1973" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1973">1973</a>.<br />In mid <a title="1973" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1973">1973</a> Richards father allowed him to leave school mid-way through fifth form, to pursue surfing. Anyone could leave after fourth form, but that was usually to take up an <a title="Apprenticeship" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apprenticeship">apprenticeship</a>. To leave for surfing was radical at a time when surfers were regarded as long-haired layabouts. The deal with his father was that if it didn't work out in a year then he had to get a trade. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left">At the end of <a title="1974" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1974">1974</a> Richards returned to <a title="Hawaii" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii">Hawaii</a> for the <a title="North Shore (O`ahu)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Shore_%28O%60ahu%29">North Shore</a> winter. This was his fourth trip, and his first taste of really big waves. He got a late entry into a contest at <a title="Waimea Bay" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waimea_Bay">Waimea Bay</a>, and did well enough on the first day of competition to make the semi-finals the next day. That day the surf had jumped and 30 foot cleanup sets were closing out the Bay. Even local big wave riders were saying it was too big to compete. Organiser and <a title="1968" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1968">1968</a> <a class="new" title="Surfing world champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Surfing_world_champion&amp;action=edit">world title</a> holder <a title="Fred Hemmings" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Hemmings">Fred Hemmings</a> had other ideas; with sunshine, offshore winds and television coverage he threatened to go out himself if nobody else wanted to.<br />Richards made a decision to go. At 17 years old and without Waimea experience nobody would have thought less of him if he didn't, but he felt to walk away would end his hopes of surfing professionally, and put him back in Newcastle at some unappealling apprenticeship. He went with survival uppermost in his mind, and reckoned his first wave twice as big as anything he'd surfed before. By the end of the heat he was game enough on the monsters to actually bottom turn, yet was glad not to reach the final and have to go back out. In time he came to enjoy big waves, without being regarded as a big-wave specialist.<br />Image was important for Richards, and in <a title="1975" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1975">1975</a> he had Hawaiian artist Albert Dove design a superman-style badge with "MR" inscribed in it. He used that logo on all his boards and wetsuits for most of his career.<br />Richards was interested in twin-fin surfboards and in shaping. At the <a title="Surfabout" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfabout">Surfabout</a> in <a title="1976" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1976">1976</a> he saw <a class="new" title="Reno Abellira" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Reno_Abellira&amp;action=edit">Reno Abellira</a> on a highly manoeuvrable twin-fin <a class="new" title="Fish (surfboard)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Fish_%28surfboard%29&amp;action=edit">fish</a> and thought something like that would be better than a single-fin for small waves. Back in <a title="Hawaii" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii">Hawaii</a> again for the <a title="1976" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1976">1976</a>/<a title="1977" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1977">77</a> winter, aged 19, he took his father's suggestion to pay for shaping lessons from noted pioneer <a title="Dick Brewer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dick_Brewer">Dick Brewer</a>. It meant Richards was able to put his thoughts about design into actual foam. He credits Brewer for the style of shaping he came to use.<br />Brewer made Richards a twin-fin, and Richards took aspects of that and Abellira's fish for his own designs. The result was boards faster and more manoeuvrable than the single-fins of the day. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left">By <a title="1979" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1979">1979</a> Richards reckoned his career as shaping primarily, and just competing at home in Australia and in Hawaii where he would go for the northern <a title="Winter" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winter">winter</a> anyway.<br />In Australia that year he had a strong win at the <a title="Stubbies (surfing)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stubbies_%28surfing%29">Stubbies</a>, and another strong win in small waves at <a title="Bells Beach Classic" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bells_Beach_Classic">Bells Beach</a>, but couldn't make a clean sweep at the <a title="Surfabout" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfabout">Surfabout</a> (relocated to Bells that year). The tour went to <a title="Niijima" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Niijima">Niijima</a> in <a title="Japan" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japan">Japan</a>, the first time tour events had been held in Japan. Richards was not focused on title ratings points and might not have gone except he had a Japanese sponsor. In four events there in small waves Richards got a 1st, a 2nd and two 5ths, which put him well in the ratings lead.<br />Richards didn't go to the two-event <a title="South Africa" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Africa">South African</a> leg, instead returning to Australia to make boards. Past world title winners hadn't reaped any great financial reward, so he reckoned he was better off putting his shaping first. So going into the last two events in Hawaii his lead had evaporated.<br />Richards came 4th in the <a class="new" title="Pipeline Masters" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pipeline_Masters&amp;action=edit">Pipeline Masters</a>, which advanced him against <a class="new" title="Wayne Bartholomew" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Wayne_Bartholomew&amp;action=edit">Wayne Bartholomew</a> and <a class="new" title="Cheyne Horan" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cheyne_Horan&amp;action=edit">Cheyne Horan</a> when they made early exits. Then at the World Cup at <a title="Haleiwa" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haleiwa">Haleiwa</a> fortune smiled on him in good 6-8 foot swell. Bartholomew went out early, and another contender <a class="new" title="Dane Keoloha" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dane_Keoloha&amp;action=edit">Dane Keoloha</a> made a tactical error of waiting for big sets which didn't come and was out. It came down to the final, which was <a class="new" title="Peter Townend" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Peter_Townend&amp;action=edit">Peter Townend</a> against Richards. If Townend won then Horan got the world title, and if Richards won then he got it.<br />In that final the two jostled for the inside position, both stubborn and wasting time out well past the break. His girlfriend (later wife) Jenny Jobson had arrived in Hawaii just in time for the final and thought he was going to be so stubborn that he'd give up the title rather than give up the inside. Finally Richards reckoned he was not in the lead and had to get some waves. He was so nervous he fell on a couple, but in the end did enough to take the win and take the title he hadn't even intended competing for.<br />The title presentation was in Haleiwa, and consisted only of a <a title="Rolex" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex">Rolex</a> watch and a plaque with a <a title="Pan Am" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pan_Am">Pan Am</a> logo. But <a class="new" title="Surfing (magazine)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Surfing_%28magazine%29&amp;action=edit">Surfing</a> magazine gave him the honour of a head-shot on the cover instead of their normal action shot, commissioned from rock photographer <a class="new" title="Norman Seef" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Norman_Seef&amp;action=edit">Norman Seef</a> in <a title="Los Angeles" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Angeles">Los Angeles</a>.<br />For <a title="1980" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1980">1980</a> Richards changed his strategy, and set out deliberately to get a second world title, doing the full tour. Although he'd won the ratings in 1979 he wasn't universally thought the best surfer, with <a class="new" title="Dane Kealoha" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dane_Kealoha&amp;action=edit">Dane Kealoha</a> reckoned the best by many. Richards was also competing against <a class="new" title="Wayne Bartholomew" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Wayne_Bartholomew&amp;action=edit">Wayne Bartholomew</a>, <a class="new" title="Cheyne Horan" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cheyne_Horan&amp;action=edit">Cheyne Horan</a> and <a class="new" title="Peter Townend" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Peter_Townend&amp;action=edit">Peter Townend</a>. In the end his results were very strong and took the 1980 title by a record number of points, and ended the season as the surfer against whom others were judged.<br />Richards won in <a title="1981" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1981">1981</a> and <a title="1982" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1982">1982</a> too, with his chief rival being <a class="new" title="Cheyne Horan" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cheyne_Horan&amp;action=edit">Cheyne Horan</a>.<br />In <a title="1982" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1982">1982</a> Richards' main sponsor, Lightning Bolt, suddenly dropped him. The reason was a mystery, he'd just won his fourth world title and was at the peak of his popularity, but they declined to renew for another year. The Lightning Bolt Australia division reckoned that treatment shabby and signed him up for several years. It turned out the parent company was in severe financial trouble, and it in fact folded, putting most of its Hawaiian staff out of work.<br />Right through Richards' career his parents went with him to see him compete, within Australia at least. They preferred sitting in among the crowd, no doubt a little out of place among the teenagers and surfie types, even though they would have been welcome in the VIP areas. Richards and his parents were close and he would celebrate a win by having a meal with them, a marked contrast to surf and party animals of the time. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left">For <a title="1983" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1983">1983</a> and following years Richards chose not to defend his title, and to travel and compete less, due to back troubles and the pressure of being on top. It turned out he was unable to compete for 1982 anyway, an ankle injury on a big day at home at <a class="new" title="Dixon Park, New South Wales" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dixon_Park%2C_New_South_Wales&amp;action=edit">Dixon Park</a> kept him on dry land for five months.<br />Richards had suffered back problems throughout his career. His legs were a little shorter and trunk a little longer than usual which meant that he tended to pivot not at the hips but a couple of vertebrae up, straining the ligaments surrounding them. He reckoned a poor diet and lack of stretching or exercise (apart from surfing) hadn't helped either.<br />His back had developed a reverse curvature, with the lower vertebrae sticking out noticeably. He required regular physiotherapy to keep it mobile, and in later years it worsened to the point of making him something of a weekend surfer, since too much would aggravate it, obviously a very frustrating situation for a surfer.<br />Today Richards still lives in Newcastle with his wife and three children and runs the Mark Richards Surf Shop in Hunter St, the same shop started by his parents. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/tQ7e0TXl-qY&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/tQ7e0TXl-qY&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-1512500470205244330?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/mark-richards.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-6301756084133504679Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:16:00 +00002007-12-07T03:39:49.400-08:00Michael Peterson<a href="http://www.surfline.com/surfaz/images/peterson_michael/merk_mpeterson_port.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.surfline.com/surfaz/images/peterson_michael/merk_mpeterson_port.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source:<br /> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_Peterson_%28surfer%29">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_Peterson_%28surfer%29</a> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left">Michael Peterson (born <a title="September 24" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/September_24">24 September</a> <a title="1952" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1952">1952</a>), known as MP, is an <a title="Australia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australia">Australian</a> <a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing">surfer</a>. He was among the best Australian surfers in the early to mid <a title="1970s" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1970s">1970s</a>, noted for his deep tube riding skill, especially at <a title="Kirra, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirra%2C_Queensland">Kirra</a> on the <a title="Gold Coast, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold_Coast%2C_Queensland">Gold Coast</a>. He was Australian champion in <a title="1972" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1972">1972</a> and <a title="1974" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1974">1974</a> and won many other major surfing competitions. <a title="Schizophrenia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schizophrenia">Schizophrenia</a> (only eventually diagnosed) and drugs cut short his career and his surfing became the stuff of legend.<br />Many of the details of Peterson's life remained obscure until <a title="Sean Doherty (surf writer)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sean_Doherty_%28surf_writer%29">Sean Doherty</a>'s biography MP: The Life of Michael Peterson was published in <a title="2004" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2004">2004</a> (on which this article is primarily based). </div><div align="left">Peterson's family lived in several places when he was very young before settling at <a title="Tweed Heads" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tweed_Heads">Tweed Heads</a> and <a title="Coolangatta, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coolangatta%2C_Queensland">Coolangatta</a> on <a title="Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queensland">Queensland</a>'s <a title="Gold Coast, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold_Coast%2C_Queensland">Gold Coast</a>. He grew up there with his mother Joan, younger brother Tommy, and younger sisters Dorothy and Denice.<br />As a boy he was in <a title="Surf lifesaving" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surf_lifesaving">surf lifesaving</a> and in the <a class="new" title="Greenmount Surf Life Saving Club" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Greenmount_Surf_Life_Saving_Club&amp;action=edit">Greenmount Surf Life Saving Club</a> won many junior titles for swimming. Being a clubbie was uncool in those days but when he got old enough to be worried by that sort of thing he stayed because it meant a locker and a warm shower at the beach. The price was a half-day a month on surf patrol, dressed in <a title="Sluggos" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sluggos">sluggos</a>, watching swimmers. He had no patience for sitting around and he and Tommy would arrange to be on patrol together for company.<br />Peterson got started surfing first on <a class="new" title="Surf-o-plane" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Surf-o-plane&amp;action=edit">surf-o-planes</a>, then polystyrene <a class="new" title="Coolite" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Coolite&amp;action=edit">Coolites</a>. Money was very tight for the family, his mother Joan worked long, long hours peeling prawns and all sorts of jobs just to make ends meet, so the boys couldn't own a board (of any kind), only hire or borrow, either from <a class="new" title="Billy Rak" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Billy_Rak&amp;action=edit">Billy Rak</a> at <a title="Greenmount Beach, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greenmount_Beach%2C_Queensland">Greenmount</a> or <a class="new" title="Johnny Charlton" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Johnny_Charlton&amp;action=edit">Johnny Charlton</a> at <a title="Kirra, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirra%2C_Queensland">Kirra</a> who ran tourist hire businesses. The boys ended up working for Rak for two summers, setting up and lugging boards around for tourists etc.<br />The first boards Peterson owned, in early <a title="1966" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1966">1966</a>, were ones broken so badly when washed over the rocks at Greenmount (before the days of <a class="new" title="Leg rope" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Leg_rope&amp;action=edit">leg ropes</a>) that their owners didn't bother collecting what remained. The boys would take them home, make rough repairs and head back out in the water on them. They also found surf club membership had another advantage – weekend surfers from Brisbane would leave their boards at the club during the week, so there was a great choice to sneak out and ride.<br />In September <a title="1967" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1967">1967</a> around Peterson's 15th birthday the family moved to units in Tweed St, <a title="Coolangatta, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coolangatta%2C_Queensland">Coolangatta</a> and the boys setup a board shaping bay underneath. They figured it'd be cheaper to make boards than to buy, and got resin and fibreglass offcuts from local factories. For blanks they used cut-down old longboards. A lot of the local kids couldn't afford new boards either, so the little business flourished, expanding to Peterson's friend <a class="new" title="Pete Townend" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pete_Townend&amp;action=edit">Pete Townend</a>'s garage too.<br />Unknowingly, the cut-downs they were making and surfing put them right in the middle of the shortboard revolution. 8 foot boards would be cut down to 6'8", or to 6'0 or right down to 5'1, though they soon found that they'd gone too far with 5'1 when they got crunched at big Kirra. The shortest they ever got to was 4'3 for friend Kerry Gill, who actually found that board went well for him.<br />Peterson's first new board, a proper board to his mind, came in <a title="1968" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1968">1968</a>. His mother offered that if he won the <a class="new" title="Greenmount Surf Lifesaving Club" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Greenmount_Surf_Lifesaving_Club&amp;action=edit">Greenmount Surf Lifesaving Club</a> championship then she'd buy him one. With his always competitive drive spurred on by that prize he was a convincing winner, and two weeks later got a 7'11 board from local shaper Ken Gudenswager. </div><div align="left">In February <a title="1971" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1971">1971</a> young <a title="Alby Falzon" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alby_Falzon">Alby Falzon</a> was on the <a title="Gold Coast, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold_Coast%2C_Queensland">Gold Coast</a> filming for <a title="Morning of the Earth" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morning_of_the_Earth">Morning of the Earth</a> during one of the best runs of swell ever seen there (12 continuous weeks rarely below head high). He'd earlier run a picture of Peterson in his magazine <a title="Tracks (magazine)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tracks_%28magazine%29">Tracks</a> with an article about the underground Gold Coast scene, and on a particular day happened to be filming at <a title="Kirra, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirra%2C_Queensland">Kirra</a> while Peterson was taking the place apart.<br />The result was a 3 minute sequence in the film, and many stills printed in Tracks. The shot of Peterson that stood out became known simply as "the cutback", it had Peterson tall and muscular, long hair flying, doing a big cutback at Kirra. That shot became the cover for the July 1972 issue of Tracks too (after the film was released).<br />Peterson didn't go to the local premiere of the film (<a title="January 10" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/January_10">10 January</a> <a title="1972" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1972">1972</a>). His mother Joan drove him up to the hall at Miami High (his old school) but he balked at being the centre of attention and they went home again. His nervousness at presentations and gatherings would be repeated many times in the future.<br />One of Peterson's secrets for surfing barrels at Kirra was the <a class="new" title="List of surfing terms" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=List_of_surfing_terms&amp;action=edit">rocker</a> (underside curvature) on his boards. Instead of having the nose start to lift from somewhere close to the end of the board, he moved the apex back near the middle and would ride it with one foot either side. By shifting weight onto the back foot the board would be on the back part and would stall, slowing down to get back deeper in the tube. And by shifting weight forward onto the front part it'd shoot forward. He told <a class="new" title="Mike Perry (surfing)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Mike_Perry_%28surfing%29&amp;action=edit">Mike Perry</a> who shaped along side him for a time "It's just like cheating, man."<br /><a id="Early_contests" name="Early_contests"></a><br />[<a title="Edit section: Early contests" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Michael_Peterson_%28surfer%29&amp;action=edit&amp;section=3">edit</a>] Early contests<br />In <a title="1971" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1971">1971</a> Peterson won the Kirra Pro-Am contest, the first Queensland contest to offer any prize money ($150), and following that the Queensland Titles which had its final round at Kirra. That title earned him a start in the Australian Titles held at <a title="Bells Beach" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bells_Beach">Bells Beach</a> (incorporated into the <a title="Bells Beach Classic" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bells_Beach_Classic">Bells Beach Classic</a>). He did poorly there, with his narrow 5'9 board unsuited to the fatter waves.<br />Back in <a title="Coolangatta, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coolangatta%2C_Queensland">Coolangatta</a> the police had an unofficial campaign to clean up the beaches, getting rid of <a title="Marijuana" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marijuana">marijuana</a> and the undesirable types who didn't suit the family-oriented tourist destination the local chamber of commerce wanted to promote. Surfers were on the top of the list of targets (and on occasions they weren't carrying anything the police were not averse to planting something). Peterson had been a heavy pot smoker for some time and on <a title="January 24" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/January_24">24 January</a> <a title="1972" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1972">1972</a> got arrested for possession and supply, but was lucky in court and got a $500 fine instead of 3 months jail.<br />That bust curbed his habit for a time, but not very long. He found pot relaxed him, one of the few things that could dull a growing whirlwind of thoughts in his head (almost certainly an early symptom of his later diagnosed <a title="Schizophrenia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schizophrenia">schizophrenia</a>). In coming years he was well known for having a couple of joints before or after surfing, even before contests. Others might have found pot made them unable to concentrate properly at a contest, but Peterson had no such worries. What he didn't do, incidentally, was get drunk, neither when young nor when older. At a nightclub he might well have had some acid, or be stoned, or whatever, but while everyone around would be drinking he'd just have lemonade. </div><div align="left">In <a title="1972" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1972">1972</a> Peterson successfully defended his Queensland Title, narrowly beating friend <a class="new" title="Pete Townend" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pete_Townend&amp;action=edit">Pete Townend</a>. (Townend ended up with an unenviable record for second place finishes in his career.) The win put Peterson into the Australian titles again, but he almost didn't get there.<br /><a class="new" title="Paul Neilsen" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Paul_Neilsen&amp;action=edit">Paul Neilsen</a> was the reigning Australian champion but hadn't made the Queensland titles final and so hadn't qualified as such to defend his Australian title. His club "Windansea" from <a title="Surfers Paradise, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfers_Paradise%2C_Queensland">Surfers Paradise</a> hatched a plan to bring up Peterson's drug conviction (as if any of them had never indulged) at the inter-club meeting and get him ousted, in favour of Neilsen. The meeting descended into chaos and the selections were put to a vote, with the result Billy Grant was sacrificed. Over the years Peterson's schizophrenia would make him imagine all sorts of plots, this was perhaps the only time there really was one.<br />The Australian titles were held that year at <a title="North Narrabeen" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Narrabeen">North Narrabeen</a> in <a title="Sydney" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sydney">Sydney</a>. In the second round Peterson surfed with energy, but also some luck, getting practically the only good waves that came through, and making it to the final. For the final the ocean went completely flat and the organisers had to cancel it, instead declaring Peterson the winner (with <a class="new" title="Pete Townend" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pete_Townend&amp;action=edit">Pete Townend</a> second, yet again).<br />That win then sent Peterson to the <a title="1972" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1972">1972</a> <a title="World surfing champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_surfing_champion">World Titles</a> in <a title="San Diego" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Diego">San Diego</a>. It was a wild time, with surfers practically taking over the <a title="Travelodge" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Travelodge">Travelodge</a> hotel there. Peterson made it through his first round heat, then in the second round in 1.5x head high waves at <a title="Oceanside, California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oceanside%2C_California">Oceanside</a> he got a full 5 second tube ride, which one judge saw and scored 19 out of 20, but the other two didn't. Only later when they compared scores did they realize the other two hadn't seen him go in, and had only scored what they saw at the end. But it was too late, the scores stood and Peterson was eliminated.<br />If fate had meant Peterson to get a world title then 1972 would have been the year for it. As it happened though his most dominant year, <a title="1974" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1974">1974</a>, fell in between this last 1972 amateur world title and the first professional title in <a title="1976" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1976">1976</a>. </div><div align="left">The <a title="Bells Beach Classic" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bells_Beach_Classic">Bells Beach Classic</a> in <a title="1973" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1973">1973</a> offered a $1000 prize, which was very substantial at that time, and was to be run under the new "points per manoeuvre" system which had been trialled at the Hang Ten event in Hawaii a few months earlier. The idea was to eliminate subjectivity from judging, it was to be just a matter of counting moves completed. In the first few rounds in big messy conditions Peterson didn't do well and was outside the top ten on total points.<br />On the last day he had a bit of luck when the leader <a title="Midget Farrelly" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Midget_Farrelly">Midget Farrelly</a> came down with a bad flu and had to withdraw. Peterson was still well behind but he got a bigger board and started bouncing around making turns like crazy. By the end he thought he hadn't done enough and didn't hang around while the judges did their arithmetic. In fact he'd won and was amazed when told. The presentation was supposed to have been on the beach but it was so cold the organisers moved it to the local pub. Peterson's speech was characteristically short, "I just want to thank everyone", before he disappeared to the back of the room.<br />The <a title="1973" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1973">1973</a> Australian titles were held at <a title="Margaret River, Western Australia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margaret_River%2C_Western_Australia">Margaret River</a> in big surf. Peterson was right up with the leaders through the early rounds, but it was fellow Queenslander Richard Harvey who got the win (and <a class="new" title="Pete Townend" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pete_Townend&amp;action=edit">Pete Townend</a> second, again).<br />Back on the Gold Coast Peterson did more board shaping, with Furry Austen enticing him away from Joe Larkin's factory with the offer of more money. </div><div align="left"><a title="1974" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1974">1974</a> was a big year for Peterson, his most successful in contest results. It started with a second place finish to <a class="new" title="Rabbit Bartholomew" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rabbit_Bartholomew&amp;action=edit">Rabbit Bartholomew</a> in the Queensland titles though. Peterson had a bit of a feud going with Bartholomew in those years. It started, as these things do, over a trivial enough thing, Peterson hadn't paid Bartholomew back for a cab ride they'd shared in Hawaii in early <a title="1972" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1972">1972</a>. But with rivalry in surf competitions, it all escalated to the point where Peterson thought Bartholomew was stalking him or somehow out to get him (which wasn't the case). They patched up their differences in later years, but in 1974 it really burned Peterson to lose the Queensland titles to Bartholomew (for a second year running).<br />Peterson then won the Kirra Pro-Am, the start of a remarkable run of wins. The next event was the <a title="Bells Beach Classic" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bells_Beach_Classic">Bells Beach Classic</a> where instead of the come from behind win the previous year he was well in control and won by a big margin. The contest was still under the points per manoeuvre system and he milked it, even slipping in old school <a title="Longboard (surfing)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longboard_%28surfing%29">longboard</a> moves that were still on the scoring card. This contest was also where he found that showing up from nowhere just minutes before a heat really played with his opponents heads and made his blitz in the water even more effective.<br />The inaugural <a title="Surfabout" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfabout">2SM/Coca-Cola Surfabout</a> was held in May 1974. Coke didn't just dip their toe into surf sponsorship, they went into it in a big way, offering a $2400 first prize, which was a new record for an Australian contest. It drew surfers from around Australia and the world, including some like <a title="Nat Young (surfer)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nat_Young_%28surfer%29">Nat Young</a> who had otherwise become disillusioned with the contest circuit. <a class="new" title="Pete Townend" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pete_Townend&amp;action=edit">Pete Townend</a> lead all the way to the final day and it was looking like Townend first and a young <a title="Mark Richards" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Richards">Mark Richards</a> second. But Peterson just kept gaining and gaining and it played on Townends nerves. Townend slipped back (to fifth in the end) and Peterson came through the winner.<br />The Australian titles for 1974 were held at <a title="Snapper Rocks" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snapper_Rocks">Snapper Rocks</a> and <a title="Burleigh Heads" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burleigh_Heads">Burleigh Heads</a>. Peterson started slowly then crushed his opponents in tubes at Burleigh. On one tube he disappeared for so long the judges thought he'd fallen, until the crowd went wild when he popped out almost at the beach.<br />It was also during 1974 that Pete Townend gave Peterson the nickname "MP". Peterson used to call him "PT" all the time, so Townend in turn coined "MP" and used it in newspaper columns he wrote, and it stuck. Peterson didn't much like "MP" in later years, associating it with hype and image, though it's still how he's most often known. </div><div align="left">In September <a title="1974" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1974">1974</a> Peterson started his Michael Peterson Surfboards business, with a factory in <a title="Currumbin" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Currumbin">Currumbin</a> next to the <a class="new" title="Burford Blanks" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Burford_Blanks&amp;action=edit">Burford Blanks</a> factory, and a shop at in Musgrave St, <a title="Kirra, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirra%2C_Queensland">Kirra</a>, right opposite the Kirra beach. His name by then was so big it seemed a sure winner. A caption in the Brisbane <a title="Courier Mail" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Courier_Mail">Courier Mail</a> wondered if he could be "Australia's first millionaire surfer".<br />He had a rather inflated idea of his own business acumen, but did have the sense not to try to go it alone, he brought in Peter Hallas as a partner. Hallas was a fellow Kirra surfer and had worked alongside Peterson at Hohensee's factory. They had a total of seven staff and would sell boards up and down the coast, often delivered by Peterson himself in his <a title="Panel van" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panel_van">panel van</a>.<br />Orders for boards soon flooded in, more than they could fill. The boards they supplied were actually more designed for Peterson's level of skill than the average surfer, but the "MP" label certainly made them sell. The problem was that Peterson wasn't very business minded and would too often sell stock out the back door or treat the business like a personal bank when it was going well.<br />Eventually Hallas despaired and by mutual agreement let himself be bought out by Peterson's mother Joan for just $1000. If run well the business should have been a gold mine, but he thought getting out was the smartest thing to do, and he remained friends with Peterson. Joan took charge better, but couldn't much improve the overall operation. She ended up walking away in <a title="1977" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1977">1977</a> when Peterson brought in a girlfriend who Joan strongly disapproved of, and shortly after that the business folded. </div><div align="left">Meanwhile back in <a title="1974" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1974">1974</a>/<a title="1975" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1975">75</a> at his factory Peterson shaped for himself a 6'6" six-channel triple-flyer pintail which became known as the Moonrocket, or the Fangtail, or the Christmas Tree. His staff laughed when they saw it, wondering how anyone could possibly surf it. The fang-like flyers at the back and finger-deep channels also made it a glasser's nightmare (so Peter Evans, who had that job at the factory, wasn't laughing).<br />The board was Peterson's secret weapon for the <a class="new" title="Pa Bendall" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pa_Bendall&amp;action=edit">Pa Bendall</a> contest at the start of <a title="1975" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1975">1975</a> at <a title="Caloundra" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caloundra">Caloundra</a> on the <a title="Sunshine Coast, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunshine_Coast%2C_Queensland">Sunshine Coast</a>. There was a lot of general weirdness on the beach at that contest, like Keith Paull going around with his head shaved and painted purple and blue. But Peterson's board brought him victory (and a $2000 prize) in knee high slop, continuing his run of success from <a title="1974" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1974">1974</a>.<br />Later the board passed to a young Peter Harris who worked at Peterson's factory, in lieu of wages owed when the business shut down. Harris surfed it until it became hopelessly waterlogged and then gave it to a friend's son on the Sunshine Coast, where, so the story goes, a famous piece of surfing memorabilia finished up as landfill.<a title="" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_Peterson_%28surfer%29#_note-0">[1]</a><br />In <a title="1995" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1995">1995</a> Tommy Peterson made a replica of the board. It was presented to <a title="Kelly Slater" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelly_Slater">Kelly Slater</a> when Slater won the peer poll in <a title="Australia's Surfing Life" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australia%27s_Surfing_Life">Australia's Surfing Life</a> magazine that year. </div><div align="left">Peterson first tried <a title="Heroin" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heroin">heroin</a> some time in <a title="1974" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1974">1974</a>, and later in <a title="1975" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1975">1975</a> got into it in a big way. The <a title="Queensland Police" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queensland_Police">Queensland Police</a> had done such a good job cleaning up the <a title="Marijuana" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marijuana">pot</a> on the <a title="Gold Coast, Queensland" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold_Coast%2C_Queensland">Gold Coast</a> that they'd created a vacuum, which was filled by a far worse drug, heroin, cheap and very pure. Many local surfers got into it, and, with everyone naive, many died from overdoses. <a class="new" title="Rabbit Bartholomew" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rabbit_Bartholomew&amp;action=edit">Rabbit Bartholomew</a> has written about that time too, he lost twelve friends to overdoses.<br />Peterson had a phobia about <a title="Hypodermic needle" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypodermic_needle">needles</a>, so he didn't inject, instead he'd chop the heroin up and snort lines. His brother Tommy (who himself wrestled with heroin addiction over the years) thought that was the only thing that saved Michael from an overdose, the fact he couldn't get enough up his nose at one time to be fatal.<br />All this time Peterson's <a title="Schizophrenia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schizophrenia">schizophrenia</a> was gradually getting worse too, he became ever more erratic, hostile to friends, and imagined plots against him. These were classic symptoms in retrospect, but at the time those who knew him just thought it was the drugs, certainly he'd done enough to make anyone act weird. His friends later wished they'd done much more for him at the time. </div><div align="left">At the start of <a title="1976" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1976">1976</a> Peterson went to <a title="New Zealand" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Zealand">New Zealand</a> for the first event in the new <a class="new" title="International Professional Surfers" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=International_Professional_Surfers&amp;action=edit">IPS</a> professional world tour. There weren't many big names there, they were in Hawaii for the much more prestigious Duke contest, and Peterson got the win. There was a certain irony in the first event of the new professional era being won by a man who was in so many ways the opposite of budding professionals like <a class="new" title="Pete Townend" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pete_Townend&amp;action=edit">Pete Townend</a> (the eventual winner of the series that year).<br />In <a title="1977" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1977">1977</a> the inaugural <a title="Stubbies (surfing)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stubbies_%28surfing%29">Stubbies</a> contest was held at <a title="Burleigh Heads" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burleigh_Heads">Burleigh Heads</a>. It was organised by <a class="new" title="Peter Drouyn" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Peter_Drouyn&amp;action=edit">Peter Drouyn</a> and he devised the "man on man" heats system fot it (which is used in <a title="ASP World Tour" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ASP_World_Tour">ASP World Tour</a> contests today). Just two surfers in the water suited Peterson, he could focus all his psyche-out energy on just the one poor bloke in the water with him. He got through to the semi-finals comfortably where he came up against <a class="new" title="Rabbit Bartholomew" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rabbit_Bartholomew&amp;action=edit">Rabbit Bartholomew</a>.<br />In front of a huge crowd the two took on 6 foot freight trains. Peterson went deep in the tube and took chances from way out on the point. Bartholomew made high-percentage moves in the pocket. Scoring was based on the whole heat and it split the judges with Peterson getting the win. Just who surfed better that day was a hot topic of debate for many years. The final was then Peterson against a young <a title="Mark Richards" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Richards">Mark Richards</a>, MP versus MR. Richards thought he couldn't match Peterson's wave hassling and decided just to take whatever came through while Peterson paddled back out. It was still quite close, with Peterson getting the win and the $5,000 prize.<br />That turned out to be his last major contest victory. He spent the next few years as something of a nomad, hardly known to anyone, taking erratic surfboard shaping jobs, sometimes dealing, and alternating time on and off drugs. To get himself clean he'd go camping to a favourite spot at the base of <a title="Mount Warning" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Warning">Mount Warning</a> with big bags of health food like fruits and nuts and just be by himself. Later in court (below) his solicitor told the court he'd tried about 30 times altogether to get clean. He surfed intermittently during those years, and got into <a title="Windsurfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windsurfing">windsurfing</a> as recreation instead, just in a small way, perhaps attracted by its solo nature. </div><div align="left">On the evening of <a title="August 9" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/August_9">9 August</a> <a title="1983" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1983">1983</a> Peterson was on his way to <a title="Noosa" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noosa">Noosa</a> to go windsurfing the next day and had pulled up at <a title="Beenleigh" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beenleigh">Beenleigh</a> south of <a title="Brisbane" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brisbane">Brisbane</a> to sleep. A police car with siren blaring came by and it set him into a panic and he drove off as fast as he could. He hadn't realized the police car was actually going the other way. The policeman saw him and took up a pursuit.<br />The pursuit turned into something straight out of a Hollywood movie, 20 police cars following, two side-swiped, and pedestrians nearly killed when he mounted the footpath at one point. The chase went on at high speed all the way to Brisbane where a further 15 police cars setup a roadblock on the <a title="Story Bridge" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Story_Bridge">Story Bridge</a>, at which point Peterson stopped. It made national news and became known in surfing circles simply as "the chase".<br />He was held in a cell overnight at Beenleigh then taken to <a title="Boggo Road Gaol" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boggo_Road_Gaol">Boggo Road Gaol</a>. The police assumed he was on drugs and took his car, The Falcon, apart looking for them. All they found was some <a title="Vitamin C" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamin_C">vitamin C</a>, part of his health kicks. The car ended up in so many pieces it was sent to the <a title="Wrecking yard" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrecking_yard">wreckers</a>.<br />Peterson's luck with the law had come to an end and he was sentenced to a year's jail, and his driver's license permanently revoked. The judge recognised heroin alone couldn't explain Peterson's sorry state and ordered a psychiatric report, but it didn't provide a diagnosis and didn't help him. Peterson started his sentence at Boggo Road, and in fact was there during some of the infamous riots (but stayed in his cell).<br />His mother Joan lobbied her local state MP, the justice minister and the prisons minister for medical help for Michael, and eventually he was moved to <a class="new" title="Wacol Prison Hospital" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Wacol_Prison_Hospital&amp;action=edit">Wacol Prison Hospital</a> on <a title="December 25" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/December_25">25 December</a> <a title="1983" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1983">1983</a> for psychiatric treatment. His <a title="Schizophrenia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schizophrenia">schizophrenia</a> was, at long long last, diagnosed and he received <a title="Mellaril" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mellaril">Mellaril</a> medication. He also took two <a title="Electroconvulsive therapy" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroconvulsive_therapy">electroshock treatments</a> in the hope they would help (giving his own consent for that).<br />At the end of his sentence Peterson returned to the Gold Coast and lived either at care facilities or with his mother. His medication helped considerably but he lived those years almost as a recluse, rarely seeking out former friends. A poor diet and the medication (especially <a title="Clozaril" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clozaril">Clozaril</a>) saw his weight balloon, to the point where those who knew him in his lanky muscular prime in the <a title="1970s" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1970s">1970s</a> could scarcely recognise him.<br />Like most schizophrenics Peterson heard voices, but he was one of the lucky few whose voices are friendly and he could chat away to them, or sort of marshal the troops when trying to keep to a diet. </div><div align="left">Through <a title="2002" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2002">2002</a> and <a title="2003" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2003">2003</a> Peterson cooperated with surf writer and <a title="Tracks (magazine)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tracks_%28magazine%29">Tracks</a> editor <a title="Sean Doherty (surf writer)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sean_Doherty_%28surf_writer%29">Sean Doherty</a> on a biography of his life, bringing light to many aspects life that had only been the stuff of surfing legend.<br />Peterson had been well enough in recent years to attend a few surf functions, including a contest organised by his old Kirra Surfriders club in <a title="2002" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2002">2002</a> called the MP Classic in his honour. It raised about $10,000 to support various local mental health services like those who looked after him over the years.<br />He hasn't surfed since some time in the mid <a title="1980s" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1980s">1980s</a>, but told Doherty "I haven't given it away! Who told you that? Is that what's getting around?". His friends have hopes that maybe on a <a class="new" title="Mini-mal" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Mini-mal&amp;action=edit">mini-mal</a> somewhere away from prying eyes his spark might be rekindled; many of his peers (<a class="new" title="Rabbit Bartholomew" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rabbit_Bartholomew&amp;action=edit">Rabbit Bartholomew</a> say) still surf. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><strong></strong><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/xZI7GAf1e70&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/xZI7GAf1e70&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-6301756084133504679?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/michael-peterson.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-4547715045949831955Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:08:00 +00002007-12-07T03:40:35.698-08:00Margo Oberg<a href="http://www.surfermag.com/events/spa06/legacy/profiles/Margo-Oberg.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.surfermag.com/events/spa06/legacy/profiles/Margo-Oberg.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source:</div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margo_Oberg">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margo_Oberg</a></div><div> </div><div>Margo Oberg is a three-time <a title="World surfing champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_surfing_champion">world surfing champion</a> from the <a title="United States" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States">United States</a>. She won her first world title in <a title="1977" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1977">1977</a>, then won back-to-back titles in <a title="1980" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1980">1980</a> and <a title="1981" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1981">1981</a>. </div><div>Margo Godfrey Oberg grew up in La Jolla, California where she quickly made her reputation as not only a talented athlete, but also a gifted surfer. Margo captured her first Women's World title Surfing Champion title at the tender age of 15 and went on to win 6 more crowns throughout her career.<br />She began the Margo Oberg Surf School in 1977 on the shores of Poipu Beach, Kauai which she still owns and operates.</div><div> </div><div><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/xzZbkg0xiJE&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/xzZbkg0xiJE&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-4547715045949831955?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/margo-oberg.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-7693545967354836959Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:04:00 +00002007-12-07T03:41:28.763-08:00Mickey Munoz<a href="http://www.surfingwalkoffame.com/images/pioneer/Munoz.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.surfingwalkoffame.com/images/pioneer/Munoz.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mickey_Munoz">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mickey_Munoz</a></div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left">Mickey Munoz, born in New York City in 1937, is one of the early pioneers of <a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing">surfing</a> but is perhaps more famous for his work as a <a title="Surfboard shaper" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfboard_shaper">surfboard shaper</a>. Munoz has been featured in many popular surfing documentaries such as the 2004 film <a title="Riding Giants" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riding_Giants">Riding Giants</a>. He currently resides in <a title="Capistrano beach" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capistrano_beach">Capistrano Beach</a>. <a title="California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California">California</a> and designs boards for <a title="Surftech" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surftech">Surftech</a>, a manufacturer of <a title="Epoxy" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoxy">epoxy</a> boards.<br />Munoz was part of the surfing scene at Malibu and was present on June 27, 1956, the day a young lady showed up and Terry "Tubesteak" Tracy nicknamed her Gidget. Later he was the stunt double for Sandra Dee in the 1959 <a title="Gidget" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gidget">Gidget</a> movie. He developed a stance while surfing that became known as the "quasimoto".<br />The correct spelling of his last name is actually Muñoz, but it mostly appears as Munoz. A good example of this appeared in his own blog, where the web address has Munoz, but the graphic on the home page has Muñoz. </div><div align="center"> </div><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong><br /><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong><br /></strong><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bkatySLru_U&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bkatySLru_U&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-7693545967354836959?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/mickey-munoz.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-4486329568301069742Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:00:00 +00002007-12-07T03:42:13.387-08:00Pauline Menczer<a href="http://www.lat34.com/_/Image/_/megan_abubo_asp_200x300.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.lat34.com/_/Image/_/megan_abubo_asp_200x300.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pauline_Menczer">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pauline_Menczer</a></div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left">Pauline Menczer (born <a title="May 21" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/May_21">21 May</a> <a title="1970" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1970">1970</a>) is an <a title="Australian" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australian">Australian</a> <a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer">surfer</a>. She won the <a title="1988" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1988">1988</a> women's amateur world title and the <a title="1993" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1993">1993</a> women's world championship and has been a long-standing competitor on the world championship tour.<br />Menczer was born and grew up in Sydney. She got her nickname "Naughty Pauls" from doing funny things as a girl, like pushing another girl into a pond. She surfed her first wave at Bronte, New South Wales Australia.She started on a board her older brother Trevor had snapped,so she started on half a surfboard<br />In <a title="1991" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1991">1991</a> Menczer was narrowly beaten in the world championship by <a title="Wendy Botha" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wendy_Botha">Wendy Botha</a>, but blitzed the field in <a title="1993" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1993">1993</a> becoming the world champion. To date she has been competing for 20 years and won a total of 20 <a title="World championship tour (WCT) surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_championship_tour_%28WCT%29_surfing">WCT</a> events and 8 WQS events; only <a title="Layne Beachley" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Layne_Beachley">Layne Beachley</a> has won more. She also was world Amateur in 1988 and world WQS champion in 2002<br />Throughout her career Menczer has battled <a title="Rheumatoid arthritis" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rheumatoid_arthritis">rheumatoid arthritis</a>. She describes it like being stiff and sore every day, as if having run a marathon. At times it had hurt even to move her fingers. A rigorous diet has given her some control over the condition.<br />Menczer failed to requalify for the <a title="2005" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2005">2005</a> <a title="World championship tour (WCT) surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_championship_tour_%28WCT%29_surfing">world championship tour</a>, but doesn't plan to retire. Her present sponsors are Stick Girl Surfboards (<a title="California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California">California</a>) and Ocean Shores Surf Shop. She lives in <a title="Byron Bay" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Byron_Bay">Byron Bay</a> when not on tour. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong><br /></strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bwcsJCgeot0&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bwcsJCgeot0&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-4486329568301069742?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/pauline-menczer.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-2667192333126531335Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:56:00 +00002007-12-07T03:43:00.879-08:00Sofía Mulanovich<a href="http://www.perusurfguides.com/images/history/sofi2.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.perusurfguides.com/images/history/sofi2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source:</div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sofia_Mulanovich">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sofia_Mulanovich</a></div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left">Sofía Mulanovich Aljovín (born <a title="June 24" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/June_24">June 24</a>, <a title="1983" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1983">1983</a> in <a title="Punta Hermosa" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punta_Hermosa">Punta Hermosa</a>, <a title="Lima, Peru" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lima%2C_Peru">Lima, Peru</a>) is a <a title="Surfing in Peru" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing_in_Peru">Peruvian surfer</a> of <a title="Croatia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Croatia">Croatian</a> descent. She is the first Peruvian surfer ever to win an <a title="Association of Surfing Professionals" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Association_of_Surfing_Professionals">Association of Surfing Professionals</a> <a title="World championship tour (WCT) surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_championship_tour_%28WCT%29_surfing">World Championship Tour</a> event. She is the first <a title="South American" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_American">South American</a> to ever win the <a title="World surfing champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_surfing_champion">World Title</a>. In <a title="2004" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2004">2004</a>, she won three out of the six <a title="World championship tour (WCT) surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_championship_tour_%28WCT%29_surfing">World Championship Tour</a> events and finished the season as World Champion. She is sponsored by Roxy.<br />On July 27th, 2007, Sofia Mulanovich was <a class="external text" title="http://hsssurf.com/hall/inductees/sofia/sofiamulanovich.html" href="http://hsssurf.com/hall/inductees/sofia/sofiamulanovich.html" rel="nofollow">inducted</a> into the <a class="external text" title="http://hsssurf.com/hall/index.htm" href="http://hsssurf.com/hall/index.htm" rel="nofollow">Surfers Hall of Fame</a> during its 10th Anniversary celebrations. She is the first South American to have this honor, having had a major impact on the sport.<br />Sofia Mulanovich will go down in history as the first South American to win an ASP world title. Think about that for a second. There have been Brazilians on the world tour since it started, and they're all contest-winning machines. If little old you ever got one of them in a heat, you would get so smoked, you wouldn't even know what to do. But until today at Haleiwa, none of them had ever won the big one.<br />Sofia and Rochelle Ballard had an awesome race for the title. It was obvious from the Gold Coast on that it was a two horse race (sorry about the pun girls), and they conducted it with style and grace, remaining close friends the whole time. I'm sure Rochelle is disappointed about not winning, but she had a great year, and should be satisfied with creating a really worth-following race for the prize.<br />The 2006 Surfer Poll and Video Awards was a big night for Sofia Mulanovich. Not only did she win Best Female Performance in a Video for her surfing in Sofia: A Documentary, that biopic made during Sofia’s championship year also won Documentary of the Year, beating out even Kelly Slater. And then to top that off, Sofia was voted #1 on the women’s reader poll, showing that even though she was second in the ratings at the end of the 2005 season, she is first in the hearts of surfers everywhere.<br />Sofia deserved the honor, as did the movie made in her name. Produced by Peter Goetz, Sofia: A Documentary is a first-rate production, detailing her arc from a girl with dreams in a small, coastal town in Peru, to her impossible dream of World Surfing Champion.<br />To see Sofia: A Documentary is to appreciate how far Sofia has come. She was born in Lima in 1983, to parents who loved the ocean. Peru is a developing country, although, Sofia grew up comfortable. She went to the San Silvestre School in Lima and took to the water almost immediately, learning to swim at three and competing as a girl. In Sofia: A Documentary, the time of Sofia’s youth is shown as a time of severe political upheaval in Peru, a time when the country suffered severe blows to its national pride and heroes were scarce.<br />Peru has always been a little surf mad, going back to the Peruvian Surf Championships in the 1965, and the country has produced some good surfers over the decades, but never a World Title contender. Sofia’s road to the impossible began with trips to Mancora, a popular beach resort at the north of Peru, where Sofia began riding waves on a Morey Boogie and then moved up to a surfboard at 9. Sofia was trained as a girl by Roberto Meza and then Peruvian pro Magoo de la Rosa began to take an interest when she showed some real talent.<br />Sofia took her first trip out of Peru as an observer to a surf contest in Guadalupe at the age of 12, but she raised eyebrows there and did it again at 13 when she made the quarterfinals of the US Open. After winning the Pan-American Championship in Brazil, Sofia was signed by Roxy to represent the company on the World Qualifying Series Tour, with hopes toward making the World Championship Tour. All this time, according to the documentary, Sofia doubted herself, that a girl from Peru would have a chance against all these women she had read about and idolized in surf magazines.<br />Sofia finished 11th in her first year, missing the WCT by one place. She made it the next year, and in her first year on the WCT she finished 7th out of 18. Sofia came up during the Reign of Queen Layne, when she won six World Titles in a row and the only thing that could stop her was a lightning bolt.<br />Peru is the land of long left points but not barreling left reefs, but in 2004, Sofia caught fire in the two most difficult events on the tour, winning the Roxy Pro Fiji and the Billabong Pro Teahupoo, and crowned that nicely with a win at the Roxy Pro France. As seen in Sofia: A Documentary, Sofia’s World Title came down to a heat at Haleiwa, and when she came from the water with a World Title, Layne was right there cheering for her.<br />It’s impossible to begrudge a girl who came from so far, against such great odds, to accomplish what Sofia did in such a short time. Watching Sofia: A Documentary, you learn that not only is Sofia a national hero in Peru, she is the national hero in Peru. And watching the documentary is to be amazed at the present level of women’s surfing. Sofia rips. She is very fast, she is smooth and she thwacks it wherever and whenever she can. Sofia lost the 2005 World Title by one missed drop at Honolua Bay, but she was right there cheering when her friend Chelsea Georgeson emerged from the water the Champ. For now and for the next few years, the race for the WCT Women’s Title is now a love pyramid with Beachley, Georgeson and Sofia all going at each other to be on the top. Women’s surfing has never been more exciting, and women like Sofia make you wonder who else is out there, bubbling in some corner of the world, dreaming of taking the world.<br />The former world champion Sofia Mulanovich (Peru) recorded her first-ever victory at the famed Huntington Beach Pier, capturing the $30,000 Honda Women’s U.S. Open of Surfing Presented by O’Neill. Sofia, who finished second here behind Chelsea Georgeson (ASU) in 2004, opted for the smaller, better-shaped waves and followed up with a 4.83 then ended Jessie Miley-Dyer’s hopes with a stunning 7.50 on the strength of several slashing moves and a connection to the inside. She ended the lengthy ride with a flashy tail-slide. Mulanovich finished with 13.83 points to Miley-Dyer’s 8.67. “It’s amazing to finally win here after seeing Chelsea win the U.S. Open twice. I’m amped right now,” said Mulanovich. “Jessie is such a great surfer. I guess I got the better waves today.” </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/FagX0KIgTiQ&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/FagX0KIgTiQ&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-2667192333126531335?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/sofa-mulanovich.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-3689072037784805293Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:53:00 +00002007-12-07T03:43:44.675-08:00Bobby Martinez<a href="http://images.google.ch/url?q=http://www.lat34.com/_/Photo/200xNone/bobby_martinez_2.jpg&amp;usg=AFQjCNFJCsNFo-Kti5XFdghCIeTcr7mXKQ"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://images.google.ch/url?q=http://www.lat34.com/_/Photo/200xNone/bobby_martinez_2.jpg&amp;usg=AFQjCNFJCsNFo-Kti5XFdghCIeTcr7mXKQ" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobby_Martinez">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobby_Martinez</a> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left">Bobby Martinez (born <a title="May 26" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/May_26">May 26</a>, <a title="1982" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1982">1982</a>) is a professional <a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer">surfer</a> from <a title="Santa Barbara, California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Barbara%2C_California">Santa Barbara, California</a>. Though he is relatively new to the surfing world as a pro, his style often draws comparisons to that of legendary surfer <a title="Kelly Slater" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelly_Slater">Kelly Slater</a>. Martinez began surfing at age 6. When he was old enough he joined the National Scholastic Surfing Association (NSSA) where he would go on to win a record 7 national titles. After several injury prone years he joined the <a title="Association of Surfing Professionals" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Association_of_Surfing_Professionals">Association of Surfing Professionals</a> in 2005. His first major title as a pro was winning the O'Neill Coldwater Classic in 2005. He joined the <a title="World championship tour (WCT) surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_championship_tour_%28WCT%29_surfing">World Championship Tour</a> in 2006 finishing the year with #5 ranking which earned him Rookie of the Year honors. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/_0KqAkjRsXw&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_0KqAkjRsXw&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-3689072037784805293?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/bobby-martinez.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-1040298865895471927Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:48:00 +00002007-12-07T03:44:29.413-08:00Rob Machado<a href="http://expn.go.com/media/xgx/srf/040721_rob06_h.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://expn.go.com/media/xgx/srf/040721_rob06_h.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rob_Machado">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rob_Machado</a> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Robert Edward Machado (better known simply as Rob Machado) (b. </strong><a title="October 16" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/October_16"><strong>October 16</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="1973" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1973"><strong>1973</strong></a><strong> Sydney, Australia) is an </strong><a title="United States" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States"><strong>American</strong></a><strong> professional </strong><a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer"><strong>surfer</strong></a><strong> from </strong><a title="Cardiff-by-the-Sea" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cardiff-by-the-Sea"><strong>Cardiff-by-the-Sea</strong></a><strong>, a community in </strong><a title="Encinitas" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Encinitas"><strong>Encinitas</strong></a><strong> (</strong><a title="San Diego" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Diego"><strong>San Diego</strong></a><strong> County), California.<br /></strong>Machado attended <a title="San Dieguito High School" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Dieguito_High_School">San Dieguito High School</a>, and is known for his casual, "laid-back" style both in and out of the water. Though he rides a modern tri-fin <a title="Shortboard" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shortboard">shortboard</a>, he could still be considered a "soul-surfer" because of his smooth cut-back style that has earned him the nickname "Mr. Smoothy". He is one of the best-known goofy-foot surfers in the world today. </div><div align="left">Rob has won many of pro surfing's most prestigious contests, including Hawaii's Pipeline Masters (Triple Crown of Surfing), and the U.S. Open of Surfing, the largest surfing event held on the U.S. mainland. His 2006 win in that competition was only his latest at <a title="Huntington Beach" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huntington_Beach">Huntington Beach</a>, and it came on the heels of his victory at the 2006 Monster Energy Pro (also held at Pipeline) on Oahu's North Shore. Also, Rob was on the "West" team that won the 2006 Summer X Games surfing competition, called "The Game", held each year in Mexico.<br />He is now retired from the <a title="World championship tour (WCT) surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_championship_tour_%28WCT%29_surfing">WCT (World Championship Tour)</a>, but was among the top contenders until injuries began plaguing him in the past few years. Nevertheless, he's finished in the top three of the world in the year-end rankings twice. Since retiring, he has concentrated on the big wave and barrelled surfing comps that he loves. The surfing magazines and his videos and films keep him in the public eye by showing his great skill.<br />Rob hosts and participates in an annual event held at his home reef called the Rob Machado Surf Classic and Beach Fair, which is an amateur competition for the locals of all ages, and it includes demo sessions with Rob and other pros, as well as a lunchtime break he takes with kids to give them tips and pointers. The competition crowns a King and Queen of the Reef for the best overall performances in a combination of surf-related events over the weekend.<br />Currently, Rob is still frequently voted in surf magazine polls as readers' favorites , and has many sponsors, including <a title="Hurley International" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hurley_International">Hurley</a>, <a title="Reef (shoe company)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reef_%28shoe_company%29">Reef</a>, and <a title="Nixon Watches" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nixon_Watches">Nixon</a>. Machado is a very good friend of and served as an inspiration to <a title="Quadriplegic" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quadriplegic">quadriplegic</a> surfer <a title="Jesse Billauer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jesse_Billauer">Jesse Billauer</a> of the Life Rolls On Foundation.<br />Just like <a title="Kelly Slater" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelly_Slater">Kelly Slater</a>, he played "himself" in the 2007 animated picture "<a title="Surf's Up (film)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surf%27s_Up_%28film%29">Surf's Up</a>". </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/EuD95UXwos8&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/EuD95UXwos8&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-1040298865895471927?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/rob-machado.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-2813147190397126668Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:45:00 +00002007-12-07T03:46:08.691-08:00Gerry Lopez<a href="http://www.olasperu.com/entrevistas/fotos/lopez2.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.olasperu.com/entrevistas/fotos/lopez2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source:</div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerry_Lopez">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerry_Lopez</a></div><div align="center"> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left">Gerry Lopez, aka "Mr. Pipeline," (born <a title="November 7" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/November_7">November 7</a>, <a title="1948" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1948">1948</a>, <a title="Honolulu" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honolulu">Honolulu</a>, <a title="Hawaii" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii">Hawaii</a>) is a world-renowned <a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer">surfer</a> and occasional film actor. He won the prestigious <a title="Pipe Masters" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pipe_Masters">Pipe Masters</a> competition in 1972 and 1973. In 1982 he co-starred in the film <a title="Conan the Barbarian (film)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conan_the_Barbarian_%28film%29">Conan the Barbarian</a> with <a title="Arnold Schwarzenegger" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arnold_Schwarzenegger">Arnold Schwarzenegger</a>. Other film appearances include <a title="Big Wednesday" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Wednesday">Big Wednesday</a> (1978), <a title="North Shore (film)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Shore_%28film%29">North Shore</a> (1987), and <a title="Farewell to the King" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farewell_to_the_King">Farewell to the King</a> (1989). He has also appeared in numerous <a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing">surfing</a> documentaries, including <a class="new" title="5 Summer Stories" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=5_Summer_Stories&amp;action=edit">5 Summer Stories</a> (1973), <a title="Step Into Liquid" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Step_Into_Liquid">Step Into Liquid</a> (2003), and <a title="Riding Giants" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riding_Giants">Riding Giants</a> (2004). Lopez is an ambassador for <a title="Patagonia (clothing)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patagonia_%28clothing%29">Patagonia</a> clothing company and has written at least one essay for their catalogs. Today, Lopez lives far from the long lenses of the surfing media, in <a title="Bend, Oregon" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bend%2C_Oregon">Bend, Oregon</a>, with his wife Toni and son, Alex. Snowboarding has become a passion for both father and son, and Gerry is now applying his talents as a craftsman to making <a title="Snowboards" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snowboards">snowboards</a>. His <a title="Surfboard" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfboard">surfboards</a> also remain in high demand.<br />Lopez played an important role in the industry of surfboard manufacturing. Whilst on Hawaii, together with other <a title="Shaper (surfboard)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaper_%28surfboard%29">shapers</a>, Lopez started the Lightning Bolt brand of high performance shortboards. This brand was the first brand to sponsor team riders with free boards, partially because the riders didn't have the money to buy them. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/EJxYVvDWeNI&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/EJxYVvDWeNI&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-2813147190397126668?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/gerry-lopez.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-2620370366797121891Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:41:00 +00002007-12-07T03:47:10.723-08:00Isabel Letham<a href="http://uninews.unimelb.edu.au/mediaComms/2007_04/SportsWomen--Letham-surfing_ri.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://uninews.unimelb.edu.au/mediaComms/2007_04/SportsWomen--Letham-surfing_ri.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isabel_Letham">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isabel_Letham</a></div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left">Isabel Letham (<a title="1899" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1899">1899</a> - <a title="March 11" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/March_11">11 March</a> <a title="1995" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1995">1995</a>) was the first <a title="Australian" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australian">Australian</a> to <a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing">surf</a>. This was at <a class="new" title="Freshwater Beach" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Freshwater_Beach&amp;action=edit">Freshwater Beach</a>, <a title="Sydney" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sydney">Sydney</a> in <a title="1915" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1915">1915</a>, tandem with <a title="Duke Kahanamoku" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duke_Kahanamoku">Duke Kahanamoku</a>.<br />Kahanamoku had been invited to Australia by the NSW Swimming Association. He hadn't brought a board so Letham's father William Letham helped him make one from <a title="Sugar pine" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_pine">sugar pine</a>. At Freshwater Beach Kahanamoku gave a 3 hour demonstration of "hawaiian-style surf shooting" to a crowd of several hundred people. Australians had been <a title="Bodyboarding" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodyboarding">bodyboarding</a> on wooden boards, and <a title="Bodysurfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodysurfing">bodysurfing</a>, but not standing up.<br />At the end of the session Kahanamoku invited Letham from the crowd for a tandem surfing demonstration. Letham was 15 at the time, but an accomplished <a title="Swimmer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swimmer">swimmer</a> and bodysurfer, and known as something of a <a title="Tomboy" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomboy">tomboy</a>. On the first few waves they paddled for she yelled for him to stop because it felt like going off a cliff. Being a gentleman Kahanamoku did stop, but then ignored her cries, went anyway, and hauled her up. They rode four waves that day and Letham was, as she later said "hooked for life".<br />Letham went on to become an accomplished surfer, and to teach surfing and swimming. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/zsbKAJLgGqg&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/zsbKAJLgGqg&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-2620370366797121891?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/isabel-letham.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-1698628641409212453Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:36:00 +00002007-12-07T03:47:57.083-08:00Keala Kennelly<a href="http://www.lat34.com/_/Photo/Nonex500/kennelly84hs06karen_m.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.lat34.com/_/Photo/Nonex500/kennelly84hs06karen_m.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source:</div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keala_Kennelly">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keala_Kennelly</a> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left">Keala Kennelly (born <a title="August 13" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/August_13">August 13</a>, <a title="1978" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1978">1978</a><a title="" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keala_Kennelly#_note-0">[1]</a>) is a <a title="Professional" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Professional">professional</a> <a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer">surfer</a>, who was featured playing herself in the movie <a title="Blue Crush" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blue_Crush">Blue Crush</a>, also featuring <a title="Rochelle Ballard" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rochelle_Ballard">Rochelle Ballard</a>, who was <a title="Kate Bosworth" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kate_Bosworth">Kate Bosworth</a>'s <a title="Stunt double" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stunt_double">stunt double</a>.<a title="" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keala_Kennelly#_note-1">[2]</a> She was also in the movie <a title="Step Into Liquid" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Step_Into_Liquid">Step Into Liquid</a>.<br />She set a record in 2005, at <a title="Teahupoo" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teahupoo">Teahupoo</a>, riding the biggest <a title="Tow" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tow">tow</a> in wave, by a woman.<a title="" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keala_Kennelly#_note-2">[3]</a><br />Keala grew up on <a title="Kauai" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kauai">Kauai</a>, is also known for <a title="DJ" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DJ">DJ</a> abilities. In 2007, she took a break from the <a title="World championship tour (WCT) surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_championship_tour_%28WCT%29_surfing">World Championship Tour</a> (WCT), to co-star in the now canceled <a title="HBO" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HBO">HBO</a> series, <a title="John from Cincinnati" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_from_Cincinnati">John from Cincinnati</a>, and to <a class="new" title="Free surf" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Free_surf&amp;action=edit">free surf</a>. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/rNnqohwRaf4&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/rNnqohwRaf4&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-1698628641409212453?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/keala-kennelly.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-7361099595736774490Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:31:00 +00002007-12-07T03:48:54.611-08:00Duke Kahanamoku<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/53/DukeKahanamoku.jpeg/290px-DukeKahanamoku.jpeg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/53/DukeKahanamoku.jpeg/290px-DukeKahanamoku.jpeg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source:</div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duke_Kahanamoku">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duke_Kahanamoku</a></div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku (</strong><a title="August 24" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/August_24"><strong>August 24</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="1890" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1890"><strong>1890</strong></a><strong> – </strong><a title="January 22" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/January_22"><strong>January 22</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="1968" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1968"><strong>1968</strong></a><strong>), is generally regarded as the person who popularized the modern sport of </strong><a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing"><strong>surfing</strong></a><strong>. He was also an </strong><a title="Olympic Games" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympic_Games"><strong>Olympic</strong></a><strong> champion in </strong><a title="Swimming" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swimming"><strong>swimming</strong></a><strong>. </strong></div><div align="left">The name "Duke" is not a title, but a <a title="Given name" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Given_name">given name</a>. He was named after his father, Halapu Kahanamoku, who was christened "Duke" by <a title="Bernice Pauahi Bishop" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernice_Pauahi_Bishop">Bernice Pauahi Bishop</a> in honor of <a title="Alfred, Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred%2C_Duke_of_Saxe-Coburg_and_Gotha">Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh</a>, who was visiting <a title="Hawaii" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii">Hawaii</a> at the time of the elder man's birth in 1869. The younger "Duke," as eldest son, inherited the name.<br />Growing up on the outskirts of Waikiki (near the present site of the Hilton Hawaiian Village), Kahanamoku spent his youth as a bronzed beach boy. It was at Waikiki Beach where he developed his surfing and swimming skills.<br />In his youth, Kahanamoku preferred an old-school (traditional) surf board, which he called his "papa nui", constructed after the fashion of ancient Hawaiian "olo" boards. Made from the wood of a <a title="Koa" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koa">koa</a> tree, it was sixteen feet (4.8 m) long and weighed 114 pounds (52 kg). The board was without a <a title="Skeg" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skeg">skeg</a>, which had yet to be invented. In his later career, he would often use smaller boards, but always preferred those made of wood.<br />On <a title="August 11" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/August_11">August 11</a>, <a title="1911" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1911">1911</a>, in an amateur swim meet, Kahanamoku was timed at 55.4 seconds in the 100 yard (91 m) <a title="Freestyle swimming" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freestyle_swimming">freestyle</a>, beating the existing world record by 4.6 seconds, in the salt water of Honolulu Harbor. He also broke the record in the 220 yd (201 m) and equaled it in the 50 yd (46 m), but the <a title="Amateur Athletic Union" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amateur_Athletic_Union">Amateur Athletic Union</a>, in disbelief, would not recognize these feats until many years later. </div><div align="left">Kahanamoku easily qualified for the U.S. Olympic swimming team in 1912, breaking the record for the 200 meter freestyle in his trial heat for the 4×200 relay. He went on to win a gold medal in the 100 meter freestyle in the <a title="1912 Summer Olympics" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1912_Summer_Olympics">1912 Olympics</a> in <a title="Stockholm" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stockholm">Stockholm</a>, and a silver with the relay team. During the <a title="1920 Summer Olympics" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1920_Summer_Olympics">1920 Olympics</a> in <a title="Antwerp" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antwerp">Antwerp</a>, he won gold medals both in the 100 meters, bettering fellow Hawaiian <a class="new" title="Pua Kealoha" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pua_Kealoha&amp;action=edit">Pua Kealoha</a>, and in the relay. He finished the 100 meters with a silver medal during the <a title="1924 Summer Olympics" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1924_Summer_Olympics">1924 Olympics</a> in <a title="Paris" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris">Paris</a>, the gold going to <a title="Johnny Weissmuller" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johnny_Weissmuller">Johnny Weissmuller</a> and the bronze to Duke's brother, <a class="new" title="Samuel Kahanamoku" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Samuel_Kahanamoku&amp;action=edit">Samuel Kahanamoku</a>.<br />Between Olympic competitions, and after retiring from the Olympics, Kahanamoku traveled to different places in the world, particularly <a title="Australia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australia">Australia</a> and the <a title="United States" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States">United States</a>, to give swimming exhibitions. It was during this period that he popularized the sport of surfing, previously known only in Hawaii, by incorporating surfing exhibitions into these visits as well. His surfing exhibition at Sydney's Freshwater Beach on <a title="December 23" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/December_23">December 23</a>, <a title="1914" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1914">1914</a> is widely regarded as the most significant day in the development of surfing in Australia. He also made surfing popular in mainland America first in <a title="Santa Cruz, California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Cruz%2C_California">Santa Cruz, California</a>. This is where surfing first started in California. The board Kahanamoku used is retained by the Freshwater Surf Club and can be viewed if the caretaker is approached respectfully. There is a statue of Kahanamoku on the headland at Freshwater. Duke was also known as the Father of Surfing.<br />During his time living in <a title="Southern California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Southern_California">Southern California</a>, Kahanamoku also performed in <a title="Hollywood" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hollywood">Hollywood</a> as an extra and a character actor in several films. In this way, he made connections with people who could further publicity for the sport of surfing. Kahanamoku was also involved with the <a title="Los Angeles Athletic Club" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Angeles_Athletic_Club">Los Angeles Athletic Club</a>, acting as lifeguard and competing on both swimming and water polo teams.<br />While living in <a title="Newport Beach" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newport_Beach">Newport Beach</a>, <a title="California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California">California</a> on <a title="June 14" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/June_14">June 14</a>, <a title="1925" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1925">1925</a>, Kahanamoku rescued eight men from a fishing vessel that capsized in heavy surf while attempting to enter the city's harbor. Twenty-nine fishermen went into the water and seventeen perished. Using his surfboard, he was able to make quick trips back and forth to shore to increase the number of sailors rescued. Two other surfers saved four more fishermen. Newport's police chief at the time called Duke's efforts "the most superhuman surfboard rescue act the world has ever seen." Thus was born the tradition of lifeguards having rescue surfboards at the ready.<br />In 1800s, a lots of Europeans arrived in Hawaii. Some Europeans didn't like the sport and try to eliminate it. In 1920, Duke Kahanamoku helped bring the sport back by founding a surfing club.<br />In <a title="1940" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1940">1940</a>, he married the love of his life, Nadine Alexander. She accompanied him when he traveled all over the world.<br />During the 1950s and 1960s, the identity of the surfer began to change. Surfers developed their own language. You could spot surfers by their suntans and the casual clothes they wore. Before long, surf music and movies helped bring surfing style to young people all over the United States.<br />Duke Kahanamoku was the first person to be inducted into both the <a title="Swimming Hall of Fame" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swimming_Hall_of_Fame">Swimming Hall of Fame</a> and the <a class="new" title="Surfing Hall of Fame" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Surfing_Hall_of_Fame&amp;action=edit">Surfing Hall of Fame</a>. The <a title="Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surfing Championship" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duke_Kahanamoku_Invitational_Surfing_Championship">Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surfing Championships</a> are named in his honor. He is a member of the <a title="United States Olympic Hall of Fame" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States_Olympic_Hall_of_Fame">US Olympic Hall of Fame</a>. He served as sheriff of <a title="Honolulu, Hawaii" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honolulu%2C_Hawaii">Honolulu, Hawaii</a> from 1932 to 1961, serving 13 consecutive terms.<br />Hawaii music promoter Kimo Wilder McVay capitalized on Duke's popularity by naming his Waikiki showroom Duke Kahanamoku's, and giving Duke a piece of the financial action in exchange for the use of his name. Duke's was a major Waikiki showroom in the 1960s and is best remembered as the home of Don Ho &amp; The Aliis from 1964 through 1969.<br />Duke's name is currently being used by another business establishment, Duke's Canoe Club &amp; Barefoot Bar, a beachfront bar and restaurant in the Outrigger Waikiki On The Beach Hotel. The decor includes many poster-size photos of Duke -- with his brothers in Waikiki, and on his travels in other parts of the world.<br />A monument at <a title="Waikiki" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waikiki">Waikiki</a> beach in <a title="Honolulu" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honolulu">Honolulu</a> also honors his memory. It shows Duke Kahanamoku standing in front of his surfboard with his arms outstretched. Many honor him by placing <a title="Lei" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lei">leis</a> on his statue. </div><div align="left">Kahanamoku died of a <a title="Myocardial infarction" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myocardial_infarction">heart attack</a> on <a title="January 22" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/January_22">January 22</a>, <a title="1968" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1968">1968</a> at the age of 77. For his burial at sea, a long motorcade of mourners, accompanied by a 30-man police escort, moved solemnly across town to Waikiki Beach. Reverend Abraham Akaka, the pastor of <a title="Kawaiahao Church" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kawaiahao_Church">Kawaiahao Church</a> performed the service. A group of beach boys began singing Hawaiian songs, including "Aloha Oe." The Duke’s ashes were then scattered into the ocean he loved so dearly. </div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5f8HcmIuU5U&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5f8HcmIuU5U&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-7361099595736774490?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/duke-kahanamoku.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-8053293211607341802Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:29:00 +00002009-07-23T04:18:55.315-07:00Bruce Irons<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SmhG7kiTM-I/AAAAAAAAAn0/Sdhm6alsx9o/s1600-h/bruce+irons.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 245px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5361613345618342882" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SmhG7kiTM-I/AAAAAAAAAn0/Sdhm6alsx9o/s320/bruce+irons.jpg" /></a> <div><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruce_Irons_%28surfer%29">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruce_Irons_%28surfer%29</a></div><div align="center"></div><br /><div align="left"><strong>Bruce Irons (born </strong><a title="November 16" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/November_16"><strong>November 16</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="1979" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1979"><strong>1979</strong></a><strong>) is a regularfoot professional surfer from </strong><a title="Hanalei" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanalei"><strong>Hanalei</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="Kauai" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kauai"><strong>Kauai</strong></a><strong> and younger brother of three-time world champion </strong><a title="Andy Irons" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andy_Irons"><strong>Andy Irons</strong></a><strong>. Best known for his radical aerial maneuvers and fearless tuberiding abilities, he claims he will surf any wave on the planet.<br /></strong>Born in <a title="Lihue" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lihue">Lihue</a>, Kauai, he was raised on the North Shore where he began surfing at age seven. After a successful amateur career with several wins in the United States Surfing Championships, he went pro shortly after graduating high school. After placing second place in 1998 and third in 2000, he defeated eight-time world champion <a title="Kelly Slater" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelly_Slater">Kelly Slater</a> to win the 2001 Pipe Masters event. on October 3rd, 2004 after qualifying for the <a title="World championship tour (WCT) surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_championship_tour_%28WCT%29_surfing">WCT</a> tour, he again defeated the seven-time champion in the semifinals at the <a title="ASP" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ASP">ASP</a> Quiksilver Pro France event, only to lose to his older brother in the final. Later, on December 15th, 2004, he won the " Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau" event in waves that exceeded forty feet (12m) at <a title="O'ahu" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O%27ahu">O'ahu</a>'s <a title="Waimea Bay" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waimea_Bay">Waimea Bay</a>. Soon after, he dazzled crowds by making the final and placing fourth in the Pipe Masters, barely re-qualifying for the 2005 tour.<br />Bruce is sponsored for life by the skate, surf, and snowboard clothing line, <a title="Volcom" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volcom">Volcom</a>. Bruce also rides for wetsuit sponsor Body Glove International. </div><div align="left"></div><br /><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong><br /><br /></div><p align="center"><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5kJuhxAxitw&amp;rel=1"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5kJuhxAxitw&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object></p></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-8053293211607341802?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/bruce-irons.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-7241361603843804826Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:24:00 +00002009-07-23T04:21:36.241-07:00Andy Irons<div align="center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SmhHfOomLwI/AAAAAAAAAn8/yQ5PoiyX22w/s1600-h/andy+irons.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 237px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 271px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5361613958214463234" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SmhHfOomLwI/AAAAAAAAAn8/yQ5PoiyX22w/s320/andy+irons.jpg" /></a> Source: <div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andy_Irons">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andy_Irons</a></div><br /><div align="left"><strong>Andy Irons (born </strong><a title="July 24" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/July_24"><strong>24 July</strong></a><strong> </strong><a title="1978" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1978"><strong>1978</strong></a><strong>) is a professional </strong><a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer"><strong>surfer</strong></a><strong>. Irons, a </strong><a title="Hawaiian" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaiian"><strong>Hawaiian</strong></a><strong>, was reared on the dangerous and shallow reefs of the North Shore in </strong><a title="Kauai" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kauai"><strong>Kauai</strong></a><strong>, and has 3 </strong><a title="World champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_champion"><strong>world titles</strong></a><strong> (</strong><a title="2002" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2002"><strong>2002</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="2003" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2003"><strong>2003</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="2004" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2004"><strong>2004</strong></a><strong>).<br /></strong>An inspiration to many young groms, he and his family host the Annual Irons Brothers Pinetrees Classic, a contest for youngsters, to give back to the community that has given them so much. The governor of Hawaii deemed February 13 forever 'Andy Irons day'.<br />The 2004 movie 'Blue Horizon' (directed by <a title="Jack McCoy" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jack_McCoy">Jack McCoy</a>), paralleled his life on the WCT tour with that of free surfer, David Rastovich. The film also touched on his long-time rivalry with 8 time world champion <a title="Kelly Slater" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelly_Slater">Kelly Slater</a>. There has been some debate over whether or not the film was an accurate and fair portrayal of Irons surfer lifestyle.<br />In 2006 he won his 4th Triple Crown Championship title, and is now tied for second place with Derek Ho on the all-time list. Irons will begin the 2007 Championship Tour in 2nd place trying to win another world title against the likes of Kelly Slater, Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Taj Burrow, Cory Lopez and the Hobgood Brothers.<br />His brother, <a title="Bruce Irons (surfer)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruce_Irons_%28surfer%29">Bruce Irons</a>, is a fellow competitor on the <a class="new" title="World championship tour (WCT)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=World_championship_tour_%28WCT%29&amp;action=edit">World championship tour (WCT)</a>. </div><div align="left"></div><br /><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/FCy2QfPAhFU&amp;rel=1"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/FCy2QfPAhFU&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><br /></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-7241361603843804826?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/andy-irons.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-8808254349455001644Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:19:00 +00002009-07-09T00:12:11.856-07:00Fred Hemmings<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SlWYLN1-Z3I/AAAAAAAAAlA/uVeAmJylqKc/s1600-h/fred.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 210px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356354650289104754" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SlWYLN1-Z3I/AAAAAAAAAlA/uVeAmJylqKc/s320/fred.jpg" /></a><br /><div><div align="center">Source:</div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Hemmings">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Hemmings</a> </div><br /><div align="left">Fred Hemmings (b. <a title="January 9" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/January_9">January 9</a>, <a title="1946" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1946">1946</a>) is an <a title="United States" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States">American</a> <a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer">surfer</a>, <a title="Politician" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Politician">politician</a>, and <a title="Author" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Author">author</a>. He is a 1965 graduate of <a class="new" title="Punahou School." href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Punahou_School.&amp;action=edit">Punahou School.</a> As 1968 <a title="World surfing champion" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_surfing_champion">world surfing champion</a>, Hemmings is considered one of the most successful surfers of all time. After a career of professional surfing in the 1960s and 1970s, Hemmings won a Republican seat in the <a title="Hawaii State Legislature" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii_State_Legislature">Hawaii State Legislature</a>. He has served in both the <a title="Hawaii State Senate" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii_State_Senate">Hawaii State Senate</a> and <a title="Hawaii House of Representatives" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii_House_of_Representatives">Hawaii House of Representatives</a>.<br />In 1991, Hemmings was inducted into the International Surfing Hall of Fame, and in 1998 the Hawaii State Sports Hall of Fame. </div><div align="left"></div><br /><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong><br /></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/XM4W0tSSCR4&amp;rel=1"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XM4W0tSSCR4&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object></div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-8808254349455001644?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/fred-hemmings.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-854494510675224074Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:15:00 +00002007-09-23T06:17:41.358-07:00Joyce Hoffman<a href="http://www.surfingwalkoffame.com/images/woman/woman_3.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.surfingwalkoffame.com/images/woman/woman_3.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joyce_Hoffman_%28surfer%29">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joyce_Hoffman_%28surfer%29</a></div><div align="center"> </div><div><strong>Joyce Hoffman is prominent </strong><a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer"><strong>surfer</strong></a><strong>, considered a woman's pioneer in the sport of surfing. She is often regarded as the first female international surfing star and was one the first inductees of the International Surfing Hall of Fame. </strong></div><div>Born in <a title="Dana Point, California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_Point%2C_California">Dana Point, California</a>, Hoffman started competing at an early age. She went on to win numerous honors including the US Surfing Championship for Women from 1965-67 and the Makaha International Open in 1964 and 1966. In 1968, she became the first female to surf the Banzai Pipeline in <a title="Hawaii" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii">Hawaii</a>. Hoffman was also the top vote getter for Surfing Magazine International Hall of Fame Awards in 1966 and 1967. In 1969, the <a title="Los Angeles Times" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times">Los Angeles Times</a> named her Woman of the Year, the only surfer to ever hold this distinction.</div><div> </div><div><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-854494510675224074?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/joyce-hoffman.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-4957094450636886357Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:08:00 +00002007-12-07T03:52:57.542-08:00Damien Hobgood<a href="http://globoesporte.globo.com/ESP/Home/foto/0,,6297294,00.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://globoesporte.globo.com/ESP/Home/foto/0,,6297294,00.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damien_Hobgood">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damien_Hobgood</a></div><br /><div></div><div><strong>Damien Hobgood (born </strong><a title="July 6" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/July_6"><strong>July 6</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="1979" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1979"><strong>1979</strong></a><strong>) is a professional </strong><a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer"><strong>surfer</strong></a><strong> from </strong><a title="Satellite Beach, Florida" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satellite_Beach,_Florida"><strong>Satellite Beach, Florida</strong></a><strong>. He is known for having the highest grand final score in the history of pro surfing by scoring 19.9 Out of 20 at The Quiksilver Pro Fiji in 2004. </strong></div><div>Hobgood is the twin brother of <a title="C.J. Hobgood" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C.J._Hobgood">C.J. Hobgood</a> who is also a professional surfer. Hobgood is a member of the <a title="World championship tour (WCT) surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_championship_tour_(WCT)_surfing">World Championship Tour (WTC)</a>. Among his notable accomplishments was defeating world champion <a title="Andy Irons" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andy_Irons">Andy Irons</a> for the Quiksilver Pro Fiji in 2004. He suffered a shoulder injury in 2005 but rebounded by winning The Globe WCT Fiji in 2006. Hobgood is part of the Surfrider Pro Team which is sponsored by the <a title="Surfrider Foundation" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfrider_Foundation">Surfrider Foundation</a>. </div><div>Hobgood is married to Charlotte Hobgood and have a daughter Savanna Grace born on <a title="July 29" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/July_29">July 29</a>, <a title="2006" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2006">2006</a> in <a title="San Diego, California" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Diego,_California">San Diego, California</a>. </div><br /><div></div><div><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/UE8LLi1p0rs&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/UE8LLi1p0rs&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-4957094450636886357?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/damien-hobgood.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-5251460045998577949Sun, 23 Sep 2007 12:19:00 +00002009-07-09T00:04:53.203-07:00Laird Hamilton<img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356352719100037538" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SlWWazmnyaI/AAAAAAAAAko/jyQGyl9g0Us/s320/untitled.bmp" /> <div><div align="center">Source:</div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laird_Hamilton">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laird_Hamilton</a> </div><div align="center"></div><br /><div align="left"><strong>Laird Hamilton (born Laird John Zerfas on </strong><a title="March 2" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/March_2"><strong>March 2</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="1964" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1964"><strong>1964</strong></a><strong> in </strong><a title="San Francisco" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Francisco"><strong>San Francisco</strong></a><strong>) is an </strong><a title="United States" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States"><strong>American</strong></a><strong> </strong><a title="Big wave surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_wave_surfing"><strong>big-wave surfer</strong></a><strong> and former </strong><a title="Male model" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Male_model"><strong>male model</strong></a><strong>. </strong></div>Laird was born in <a title="San Francisco" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Francisco">San Francisco</a> on March 2, <a title="1964" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1964">1964</a>, in an experimental <a title="Bathysphere" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathysphere">bathysphere</a> designed to ease the mother's <a title="Labor" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Labor">labor</a>. Laird and his mother, Joann Zyirek Zerfas, moved to Hawaii when he was still an infant, after the departure of his <a title="Greece" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greece">Greek</a> birth father, L.G. Zerfas, before his first <a title="Birthday" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birthday">birthday</a>. Laird hunted pigs and worked in <a title="Taro" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taro">taro</a> patches as a boy. Even as a child Laird showed an unquenchable thirst for adrenaline; footage has been released of him jumping off a sixty foot cliff into deep water at just 7 years old. While a young boy, Laird met legendary 1960's surfer Bill Hamilton on Pupukea beach of the North Shore of Oahu; saying "I want you to be my daddy, so you have to meet my mommy," Laird introduced Bill to his mother. Bill Hamilton went on to marry Joann, and become Laird's adopted father, eventually moving the family to a remote valley on the island of Kauai. JoAnn and Bill divorced after ten years of marriage, having given Laird a younger half-brother (and surfer), Lyon. JoAnn died of a brain aneurysm in 1997.<br />Laird thus grew up in the 1960s and 1970s with one of the greatest <a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing">surfing</a> locations in the world on the north <a title="Coast" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coast">coast</a> of <a title="Oahu" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oahu">Oahu</a> as a playground with a legendary <a title="Surfer" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfer">surfer</a> as a <a title="Father" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Father">father</a> and <a title="Coach (sport)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coach_%28sport%29">coach</a> to mold him into the art of conquering big <a title="Wave" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave">wave</a> <a title="Surf" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surf">surf</a>.<br />At school, Hamilton had a difficult time in classes dominated by darker native <a title="Hawaiian" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaiian">Hawaiians</a>, where he was often the only Caucasian person in the class. At the age of sixteen Hamilton quit the eleventh grade at Kapaa High School to pursue a modeling career and work in construction (with a little help, he can build a house from scratch). At the age of seventeen Laird was discovered on a beach in Kauai by a photographer from Italian <a title="Men's Vogue" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Men%27s_Vogue">Men's Vogue</a> magazine <a class="new" title="L'Uomo Vogue" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=L%27Uomo_Vogue&amp;action=edit">L'Uomo Vogue</a> which subsequently saw him land a modeling contract and later a 1983 photo shoot with the actress <a title="Brooke Shields" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brooke_Shields">Brooke Shields</a>.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;">1980's<br /></span>By the age of twenty, Laird had already become an accomplished surfer and could have easily left modeling to pursue the well-worn path from clothing endorsements to dominance on the prized World Championship Tour. However, competitive surfing and contests never appealed to Laird, who had watched his father Bill suffer thoroughly in organized championships. Bill Hamilton regarded surfing more as a work of art rather than based chiefly on performance. As a young Laird once quoted "Contests are less about the one big wave," he says, "than about your performances. Surfing is about your body of work. It's about art. I would snap if I was letting someone other than the audience determine my fate. How does a musician judge his thing? By how many people love his music?" In the 1987 movie <a title="North Shore (film)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Shore_%28film%29">North Shore</a>, Laird played the antagonistic role of "Lance Burkhart."<br />Despite further success in modeling during the 1980s, Hamilton, with his professional surfing upbringing, had always intended to venture into a life of surfing. But, Laird's rejection of, and disposition toward, the contest circuit meant that he had to devise an alternate route to fame and international recognition.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;">1990's<br /></span>An early attempt at media recognition was his quest to be the first surfer to complete a 360 loop while strapped to his board. The attempt was chronicled in the ski film <a class="new" title="Groove - Requiem in the key of Ski" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Groove_-_Requiem_in_the_key_of_Ski&amp;action=edit">Groove - Requiem in the key of Ski</a> by <a class="new" title="Greg Stump" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Greg_Stump&amp;action=edit">Greg Stump</a> (1990). Thus he embarked on famously, in the early 1990s with Maui's legendary 'Strapped' crew, a group of eight or so friends that included fellow all-star Rush Randle which aimed to push the restrictions and boundaries of contemporary surfing beyond people's wildest imaginations. The Strapped crew amazed spectators by tackling bigger wave surf and featuring stunts such as launching 30-foot jumps on sailboards, then mating the boards to paragliders to experiment with some of the earliest kiteboards. The video "Strapped" chronicles their feats.<br />In late 1992, Hamilton with some of his companions, such as Darrick Doerner and Buzzy Kerbox, started using inflatable boats to tow one another into waves which were too big to catch under paddle power alone. The technique, which would later be modified to use <a title="Jet ski" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_ski">jet skis</a>, was a revolutionary innovation. <a title="Tow-in surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tow-in_surfing">Tow-in surfing</a>, as it soon became known, pushed the confinements and possibilities of big wave surfing to a whole new level. Although met with mixed reactions from the surfing community, some of whom felt that it was cheating and polluting, Laird explained that tow-in surfing was the only way to catch the monstrous sized waves such as those that can be seen at Jaws (Peahi) off the coast of <a title="Maui" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maui">Maui</a> and the coastline of Tahiti. Using tow-in surfing methods, Hamilton quickly learned not just how to survive 70-foot waves but to carve arcs across walls of water that could literally sink ships. This put a high level of drama back into a sport long preoccupied with small-wave hopping tricks that had become a cliché in competitive surfing.<br />Soon, Hamilton was receiving the recognition he had long craved. In 1994 he appeared on both ESPN (with his first wife, Brazilian bodyboarder Maria Hamilton) and the cover of the magazine which gained him attention from a number of sporting agencies who recognized his potential, landing an exclusive sponsorship from the French beachwear company '<a title="Oxbow (sportswear)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxbow_%28sportswear%29">Oxbow</a>' surf later that year which he still endorses, modelling their clothes and featuring in their adverts.<br />However, in 1995, Laird's life took an unexpected detour. He left his wife and baby daughter and moved in with professional <a title="Volleyball" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volleyball">volleyball</a> player and model <a title="Gabrielle Reece" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabrielle_Reece">Gabrielle Reece</a> in Los Angeles whom he met following an interview by her on American television. He went on to marry Reece in November <a title="1997" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1997">1997</a>.<br />Hamilton's climb to fame was greatly helped by Gabrielle Reece's expertise in the media machine who "knew all about being in a sport where you had to create something out of nothing," as she says. She soon set Hamilton up with her own talent manager, Jane Kachmer, who recommended that he needed some professional organization and publicity to achieve his potential. In short order, Hamilton's career began looking a lot more like Reece's. In 1996, People magazine named him one of the 50 Most Beautiful People in the World, and he replaced Reece as correspondent for the syndicated cable series 'The Extremists'.<br />By the late 1990s, Laird, whilst gaining more attention, had become a truly all-round waterman, gifted in a number of other watersports such as <a title="Windsurfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windsurfing">windsurfing</a>, <a title="Waterskiing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterskiing">waterskiing</a> and developing his <a title="Kitesurfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitesurfing">kitesurfing</a> abilities as a pioneer of the sport. In 1996 Laird and <a title="Manu Bertin" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manu_Bertin">Manu Bertin</a> were instrumental in demonstrating and popularising kitesurfing off the Hawaiian coast of Maui.<br />Demonstrating his superb ability in the water, in 1999 Laird sailed his windsurfer between the Hawaiian islands of Oahu and Kauai, some fifty miles away, an endeavour he completed in just five or six hours. He later sailed his windsurfer back again. Hamilton has also been credited with inventing the <a title="Foilboard" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foilboard">foilboard</a>, which he has also developed in, an innovative <a title="Surfboard" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfboard">surfboard</a> which incorporates <a title="Hydrofoil" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofoil">hydrofoil</a> technology allowing a higher degree of precision and effectiveness of aerial techniques within the water. Most recently, he has become the most public practitioner and proponent of stand-up paddle surfing, an ancient Hawaiian technique that requires an enormous longboard and a long-handled paddle, as well as considerable skill, strength and agility. Some "purist" surfers have blasted him for this, but Hamilton has called it a return to an old, traditional Hawaiian way of surfing, some say practiced by King Kamehameha and his queen Ka'ahumanu almost three hundred years ago.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;">2000 - present</span><br />However, it was Hamilton's death-defying drop into <a title="Teahupo'o" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teahupo%27o">Tahiti's Teahupo'o break</a> on the morning of August 17, 2000 which became the benchmark in his career and his life, and cemented his reputation as the greatest big wave surfer of all time. A wipeout in Teahupo'o, a particularly hazardous shallow-water reefbreak in southeast Tahiti, means almost certain death. At Teahupo'o, Laird dropped into what is widely considered to be the most dangerous wave ever ridden. His ride there is known by surfers worldwide simply as 'The Wave', and a shot of him riding The Wave made the cover of Surfer magazine, accompanied by the caption: "oh my god...". Afterwards even Laird admitted that even he was pushing himself to the "max, max, max, max". Hamilton is now widely regarded as the best of the best at big wave surfing, regularly surfing swells of 35 <a title="Foot (unit of length)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foot_%28unit_of_length%29">feet</a> (11 m) tall, and moving at speeds in excess of 30 <a title="Mile" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mile">miles</a> an hour (50 km/h) and successfully riding other waves of up to 70 feet high (22 m), at up to 50 mph (80 km/h).<br />He has often been credited for being able to conquer such enormous 'big wave' surf because of his exceptional physical conditioning and stature. At 6'3" (1.90m) and 220 pounds (102kg) he is able to take on larger waves which many smaller surfers could not physically handle.<br /><br />Laird's first marriage was to Brazilian bodyboarder/clothes designer Maria Souza, with whom he has a daughter, Izabela, born in 1995. He is at present married to model/pro athlete <a title="Gabrielle Reece" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabrielle_Reece">Gabrielle Reece</a>, with whom he has a second daughter, Reece Viola, born in <a title="2003" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2003">2003</a>, and another child on the way, due in January 2008.<br /><br />Laird appeared in the 2004 documentary <a title="Riding Giants" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riding_Giants">Riding Giants</a> about surfing and the opening sequence of the 2002 James Bond movie <a title="Die Another Day" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_Another_Day">Die Another Day</a>, as <a title="Pierce Brosnan" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierce_Brosnan">Pierce Brosnan</a>'s big-wave surfing double. He also appears in <a title="Waterworld" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterworld">Waterworld</a>, as <a title="Kevin Costner" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kevin_Costner">Kevin Costner</a>'s stunt double in numerous water scenes. During the making of "Waterworld", Laird, who had been commuting to the set via jet-ski, was lost at sea when his jet-ski ran out of fuel between Maui and the Big Island. He drifted for many hours before being spotted by a Coast Guard plane and rescued; when the abandoned jet-ski washed up on shore on the island of Lanai, he went over to fetch it and drove it back home again.<br />In 2007, Hamilton, along with his wife <a title="Gabrielle Reece" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabrielle_Reece">Gabrielle Reece</a>, appeared in the ABC <a title="Reality television" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reality_television">reality television</a> series <a title="Fast Cars and Superstars: The Gillette Young Guns Celebrity Race" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fast_Cars_and_Superstars:_The_Gillette_Young_Guns_Celebrity_Race">Fast Cars and Superstars: The Gillette Young Guns Celebrity Race</a>, featuring a dozen celebrities in a stock car racing competition. In the first round of competition, Hamilton matched up against <a title="Tennis" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tennis">tennis</a> star <a title="Serena Williams" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serena_Williams">Serena Williams</a> and former NFL <a title="Quarterback" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarterback">quarterback</a> <a title="John Elway" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Elway">John Elway</a>. Laird was eliminated in episode 5.<br />He has appeared in the television show <a title="Iconoclasts" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iconoclasts">Iconoclasts</a> with <a title="Eddie Vedder" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddie_Vedder">Eddie Vedder</a> from the popular American rock band <a title="Pearl Jam" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pearl_Jam">Pearl Jam</a><br />Footage of Laird is used on the video for "Dayvan Cowboy" from Boards of Canada.<br /><br /><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong><br /><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong><br /><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/JfPYVYc0U3M&amp;rel=1"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/JfPYVYc0U3M&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-5251460045998577949?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/laird-hamilton.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-6219030599796976487Sun, 23 Sep 2007 12:14:00 +00002007-12-07T03:55:11.343-08:00Bethany Hamilton<a href="http://www.surfersvillage.com/gal/pictures/hamilton636s8810rcm04karen_l.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.surfersvillage.com/gal/pictures/hamilton636s8810rcm04karen_l.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><div align="center">Source: </div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bethany_Hamilton">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bethany_Hamilton</a></div><br /><div align="center"></div><div align="left"><strong>Bethany Meilani Hamilton (born </strong><a title="February 8" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/February_8"><strong>February 8</strong></a><strong>, </strong><a title="1990" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1990"><strong>1990</strong></a><strong>) is an </strong><a title="United States" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States"><strong>American</strong></a><strong> </strong><a title="Surfing" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing"><strong>surfer</strong></a><strong>. She is known for surviving a </strong><a title="Shark attack" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shark_attack"><strong>shark attack</strong></a><strong> in which she lost her left </strong><a title="Arm" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arm"><strong>arm</strong></a><strong>, and for overcoming the serious and debilitating injury to return to surfing. </strong></div><div align="left">Hamilton was born in <a title="Kauai" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kauai">North Shore, Kauai</a>. Both of her parents were keen surfers who moved to Hawaii from the continental United States for the surfing opportunities. Hamilton was taught how to surf by her parents when she was 4 years old. Her surfing abilities progressed very quickly and, while still in grade school, she won first place in the "push and ride" division of a Quicksilver surfing contest. She entered her first major competition at the age of 8, the "Rell Sun" contest on the island of Oahu at Makaha beach, competing in the girls seven to nine shortboard, and seven to nine longboard, taking first place in both. Her senior career as a surfer started when she won the 1999 Haleiwa Menehune Championships 23rd annual contest, in February, 2000. In this competition, she placed 1st in the "11-under girls", 1st in the "15-under girls," and 2nd in the "12-under boys" division at the Volcom Puffer Fish contest. She picked up a sponsor, Rip Curl, which aided her with her plans of becoming a professional surfer. Hamilton is also a devout Christian who uses her shark attack experience in her personal ministry. </div><br /><div align="left">On October 31, 2003, Hamilton went for a morning surf along Tunnels Beach, Kauai with friends Alana, Byron and Holt Blanchard. Around 7:10 a.m., she was lying on her surfboard with her left arm dangling in the water, when a 14ft <a title="Tiger shark" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger_shark">tiger shark</a> attacked her,<a title="" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bethany_Hamilton#_note-0">[1]</a> ripping her left arm off just below the shoulder. Her friends helped her paddle back to shore, and fashioned a tourniquet out of a surfboard leash around what was left of her arm before rushing her to Wilcox Memorial Hospital.<br />Despite the trauma of the incident, Hamilton was determined to return to surfing. Just ten weeks after the incident, she returned to her board and went surfing again. She adopted a custom-made board that was longer and slightly thicker which made it easier to paddle. She has observed that she has to kick a lot harder to make up for the loss of her left arm. After teaching herself to surf with one arm, she has again begun surfing competitively.<br />In July of 2004 Hamilton won the <a title="ESPY Awards" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ESPY_Awards">ESPY Award</a> for Best Comeback Athlete of the Year.<a title="" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bethany_Hamilton#_note-1">[2]</a> She was presented with a special courage award at the 2004 Teen Choice Awards. Hamilton still aspires to become a professional surfer.<br />Since the attack, Hamilton has appeared on 20/20, Good Morning America, Inside Edition, The Oprah Winfrey Show, The Ellen DeGeneres Show, The Tonight Show, as well as in <a title="People (magazine)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/People_(magazine)">People</a> and <a title="Time (magazine)" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time_(magazine)">Time</a>. In 2004, MTV Books published Hamilton's book, Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board (<a class="internal" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:Booksources&amp;isbn=0743499220">ISBN 0-7434-9922-0</a>), which describes her ordeal. </div><div align="left">The 2007 <a title="Short subject" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Short_subject">short subject</a> <a title="Documentary film" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Documentary_film">documentary film</a>, Heart of a Soul Surfer was directed by Becky Baumgartner and is currently appearing in <a title="Film festival" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_festival">film festivals</a> around the world. Described as a "faith-based documentary", the film portrays the true, <a title="Coming of age" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coming_of_age">coming of age</a> story of Bethany Hamilton. Addressing Hamilton's courage in the aftermath of the loss of her arm in a tiger shark attack, the film follows Hamilton's quest for spiritual meaning and purpose.</div><div align="left"></div><br /><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div></div><br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/duelon0MF2o&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/duelon0MF2o&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-6219030599796976487?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/bethany-hamilton.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7624214972418518656.post-6919393840801548201Sun, 23 Sep 2007 12:07:00 +00002009-07-09T00:16:56.382-07:00Jeffrey "Jeff" Hakman<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SlWZOcVuMtI/AAAAAAAAAlI/Gw2NGo2BNdI/s1600-h/jeff.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 213px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356355805231592146" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_-LKF2JK_r2s/SlWZOcVuMtI/AAAAAAAAAlI/Gw2NGo2BNdI/s320/jeff.jpg" /></a><br /><div><div align="center"><strong>Source: </strong><br /></div><div align="center"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeff_Hakman"><strong>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeff_Hakman</strong></a><br /></div><div align="center"></div><br /><div align="left">Jeff Hakman is an ex-world surfing champion and multi millionaire founder of clothing giant <a title="Quiksilver" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quiksilver">Quiksilver</a> , who lost it all to a heroin addiction - twice.<br />Jeff started surfing in 1956 at age eight in Palos Verdes (California) and at the age of ten moved to Hawaii with his parents. He surfed Waimea Bay at fourteen years old and at seventeen won the prestigious surfing title, The Duke Kahanamoku Classic. From twenty one to twenty seven he won the most major surfing titles on the planet including the first Pipeline Masters, 1976 Bells Beach and was 1974 and 1975 unofficial World Champion.<br />In 1976 Jeff founded Quiksilver America with Bob McKnigh and in 1984 founded Quiksilver Europe with Harry Hodge, Brigitte Darrigrand and John Winship.<br />Today Jeff Hakman is travelling continuously, living in France half the year and Hawaii the other half. He is the Marketing Director for NaPali SA (Quiksilver) in France and still enjoys surfing big waves.<br /></div><br /><div align="left"><strong>Fausto Intilla</strong><br /></div><div align="left"><a href="http://www.oloscience.com/"><strong>www.oloscience.com</strong></a><strong> </strong></div><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/deUDbDx7YZY&amp;rel=1"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/deUDbDx7YZY&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7624214972418518656-6919393840801548201?l=bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>http://bignamesofsurf.blogspot.com/2007/09/jeffrey-jeff-hakman.htmlf.intilla@bluewin.ch (WWW.OLOSCIENCE.COM)0